John G.
Yelp
Lynn Archer has to be one of the truly heroic culinary figures in the world of Maine cuisine.
Working in the industry for over 20 years, her former little restaurant , the Brass Compass, was simply perfect.
Seriously. The setting was wonderful, the homespun atmosphere was one of small town diner. The place was intimate and inviting, there was never enough room, and you always had to wait to be seated, and yet , service remained gracious and attentive , and more importantly, the food they created was honest , perfectly executed and delicious.
They weren't using pre-chopped bags of iceberg lettuce from Sysco, dressing dispensed from a gallon plastic barrel , or sauces ladled from a bag.
If you ordered a piece of fish with a Newburg sauce , the sauce was made in house by someone who actually cared about what was on your plate, and truly wanted to create their very best food for you to enjoy.
Sadly , the Brass Compass was driven to extinction by the city of Rockland and progress , and Lynn''s remaining eatery, Archers appears to be yet another enterprise that has gone over to the dark side with their dinner items.
My wife and I had dinner there tonight , and if I hadn't been sitting on the deck staring at Rockland Harbor, I swear , we could have been at Applebees. The food was lack luster at best , and I felt cheated when our server handed me the bill.
I haven't had lunch there in a while, but I suspect the sandwiches and fries are still relatively intact, and haven't been reduced to the disappointing state of their dinners.
I need to add, this was end of summer in Maine and I fully recognize that staff gets worn down to a nub, but my impression of the food was that everything that appeared on our table came from a box or a bag , and at best, was massaged back to life somewhere back in their kitchen.
What's really sad, is Maine is blessed with an abundance of stunning local produce. The tomatoes this time of year, the fresh greens, kale, lettuces, and of course fabulous sweet corn , all are to die for.
Where were those items on the menu?
Maine arguably has the best seafood in the country, and to ignore that tremendous local resources, in favor of some pre-made Franken-fare , why?
I had a restaurant for 12 years in a highly competitive market, and the one mantra I always stressed to my staff, and lived by daily, was that we couldn't be as good as everyone else , we had to be better than everyone else. That was always my goal.
I wish Lynn well and hope she can find her way back again.
I miss the food she once created, with love and care, simmering in every mouthful.