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The Lodge (5 stars)
Accessible by a short helicopter ride, Atzaro is an oasis of elegance set against the rugged beauty of the Okavango delta. The lodge, adorned with tasteful African artwork, screams luxury without losing its intimate connection to nature. The suites are palatial, each equipped with a private plunge pool, air conditioning, and an outdoor bathing area. Picture yourself lounging in large breezy common areas, whether it's the dining area, the bar, or the wine tower. Maybe you’ll find calmness at the firepit, swimming pool, or the yoga deck. This lodge was the best of our trip—a haven of opulence amid the wild. The lagoon pictured in the brochures is not permanent. When we visited in mid-May, the floods hadn't reached the south-eastern parts of the delta. While we anticipated this from our research, others seemed surprised. A couple of additions could elevate the lodge even further. The guiding accompaniment was an unillustrated list of animals to tick off, devoid of engaging interest. Binoculars for each room would enhance the game viewing experience, especially considering that other lower-priced camps provide them. Even a telescope on the observation deck would allow guests to fully immerse in the breathtaking views.
The Service (4.5 stars)
With only a few weeks of operation under its belt by mid-May, the camp was still finding its groove. Post-drive towels were sporadic, the turn-down service had its hiccups, and the cleaners left keys in our lodge door. Roles seemed fluid to the point of confusion. Other camps usually designate one or two main contacts, which we found more streamlined. The staff, though, were a delight—eager to learn our names and shower us with friendliness. The 30-minute massage at the spa was excellent. My masseuse, a true knot-buster, worked magic on my travel-weary back. Now, let's talk food. Generally exceptional, befitting the lodge's luxurious standards. Lunch was the standout—a generous spread of grains, pulses, salads, and locally-inspired protein dishes, each bite a satisfying delight. Dinner leaned towards fine dining: smaller portions, but exquisite, beautifully presented dishes that teased and pleased the palate. Breakfast, well, if you're actually hungry at 5:30 am, is limited and a bit repetitive. But there’s something charming about huddling around the firepit as the sun rises, sharing this early meal as a group. Dietary requirements? They’ve got it covered, down to the tea and cake. Drinks? Premium, with a lovely selection of South African wines and an array of diverse spirits to keep things interesting.
The Game (5 stars)
Our first game drive in Botswana set a high standard. Nestled in concession NG32, between Maun and the Moremi game reserve, this camp sits in a fertile part of the delta, rich in diverse landscapes of dry grasslands, vast floodplains, reed-lined hippo channels, mopane shrub and shady acacia woods. The mid-May visit meant the floods hadn’t yet reached this part of the delta, but some permanent lagoons ensured a thriving ecosystem. We witnessed an impressive array of wildlife— kudu, impala, wildebeest, zebra, jackals, warthogs, giraffes, buffalo, hippos, ostrich and many types of birdlife. For elephant enthusiasts, this area is nirvana. The plains around the camp, teeming with elephants, offered breathtaking scenes of these gentle giants from your plunge pool. Predator sightings were more elusive. The newness of the camp made big cats more wary of vehicles. Across three days, we tracked down a hyena, a mating lion pair, the resident pride lounging in the shade, and a roaming male lion near the camp, plus a cheetah. Most action unfolded on our final drive, a thrilling chase through the bush that tested our guides tracking skills. Max, our guide, deserves special mention. His relentless pursuit of big cat sightings at points felt futile but ultimately was highly rewarding versus the almost dull ease of the national parks. His ability to interpret tracks, attune to the environment, and predict animal movements was nothing short of extraordinary.