Alfred B.
Yelp
Balthazar, located in the beautiful Lawson Apartments - Perth's best Art Deco building - has recently been taken over by Emma and Dan from the chic Northbridge bar, No Mafia. And in the week or so since the reopening they have certainly stamped their style on the place. Now not quite as moodily and dimly lit and a rearrangement of furniture, but most of all a new menu and wine list echoing the fresh and on-trend menu of No Mafia, and definitely emphasising the interest of Emma and Dan in new wines and wine styles.
The 99 wines on the list are geared towards small producers and styles, across a range of countries, regions and varieties. Many are representative of the move by younger wine makers to a minimalist approach to wine making which has seen some quite extraordinary wines appearing on lists in the past three to four years.
I dropped by on Friday to have a look around, partake, of course, in a drink or two along with a small sample of the food on offer, and returned accompanied by Lady FWO for a longer lunch on Monday - both occasions demonstrated the new direction of food and wine and an excellent direction it is.
Starting with the food - the menu has around half a dozen starters and maybe 10 mains, plus sides and desserts - and in new head chef Skye Faithfull Balthazar has struck a winner.
We began with Bread in Common sourdough and rye, with house made butter sprinkled with bush tomato crumbs - excellent bread, chewy, full of flavour so removed from Tip Top!
A salad of lightly charred asparagus, broad beans, smoked ricotta and a buckwheat and lupin crisp was a triumph of fresh, breezy flavours - vibrant, lively with the ricotta providing a smoky and creamy top note - delectable.
Seared scallops - sea-salty, tender, juicy - were served with Jerusalem artichoke soup - sweet, nutty flavours abounding - a few slivers of radish contributing a mild peppery note. Another light and refreshing dish.
Chicken, marinated in a whey brine, was gloriously tender and moist, beautifully seasoned, came with persimmon and freshly shaved Manjimup truffle added its wonderful musky and aromatic aroma and taste.
Our final dish - risotto of buckwheat was creamy, nutty, al dente, topped with swirls of beetroot labne providing saltiness and sweet earthy notes - finally crisply fried curry leaf gave another fragrant lift - wonderful.
A chunk of cave aged cheddar served with quartered pickled onion and fig paste rounded out an excellent meal.
To the wine.
Over the two visits and sticking to glasses only, should you begin to feel we have a drinking problem, we were able to sample of good swathe of the by the glass selection.
Baron Jacques Blanc de Blanc NV, a French sparkling from Burgundy has fruit driven citrus blossom aromas and bready notes; the palate is crisp and pure with apple and citrus flavours and a long crisp mineral finish. A great alternative to champagne.
From Austria, the Michael Gindl Flora Weiss 2014 Riesling blend is made on sustainable and minimal intervention principles. It has a bouquet of citrus blossom with some musky notes. The zesty palate is full of grapefruit flavours and herbal minty elements. Well balanced with fine acid it has a crisp and elegant finish.
Another French wine, this one made from Chenin Blanc, Domaine d'Orfeuilles 2014 from Vouvray is bright, pale yellow with a an aromatic nose of lemon and lime, with some flinty undertones. The palate is fresh, delicate and well balanced.
One of the best of the new breed of winemakers in WA, Ryan O'Meara from Express Winemakers has turned out a brilliant Chenin Blanc with the 2015. It has lifted aromas of lime and lemon with a salty, crushed chalk note. It is quite unlike the usual tropical fruit nose of most Chenins you see around. The palate echoes the salty notes and citrus flavours while adding a nutty cashew like element. It is juicy and crisp - excellent.
From one of the oldest wine regions in the world, Georgia, comes Pheasants Tears Rkatsiteli. Fermented in buried claypots lined with beeswax this is darkly golden, with a slightly oxidized nose of spice, honey and pears. It has a grippy palate of peach and dried pear flavours, not to everyone's taste I fancy, but it certainly makes a statement.
We also managed a few of the reds!
Balthazar in its new incarnation is a brilliant addition to the Perth dining and drinking scene - outstanding food, impressive wine list, talented chef, friendly, welcoming and knowledgeable waiters, lovey venue - it has it all. Very much recommended.