Karl Niblock
Google
Superlative. Chef Paul, and restauranteur/sommelier/hostess Helen, have cultured a pearl in the heart of Kinsale.
My wife and I experienced the artistry of the tasting menu and a flight of fine wine assembled exclusively for the revelatory enjoyment of their diners.
Fresh, local, ingredients and global wines come together immaculately to take you on a journey through seafood, game, and the land.
The highlight above all, in my opinion, was the clearly refined rabbit dish packed with umami and gamey goodness, and not overpowered by a delicately chosen red (that I won't spoil).
The pricing is as expected for European fine dining at a one Michelin star restaurant. Altogether we paid less than €500 for two, including the wine pairing. This is exceptionally reasonable for the quality and service.
This is a restaurant on the course for another star should the service tighten appropriately. Helen's warmth is not diluted by her knowledge and confident style, which is a hard act to pull off. There is just a gap between one and two stars in terms of service expectation, but in my opinion the propriety and Scots-Irish charm of Bastion is closing the gap at pace.
Chef Paul treads the fine line of innovative gastronomy and "reliably appetising food" with circumspect judgement. He has honed dishes which challenge taste and texture while pleasing the eye, nose, and mouth like the best of mammy's home-cooked fayre.
Bravo!