Mark F.
Yelp
Really wanted to give these guys a four, or even a five, but to be honest it was a bit of a struggle. It was all very nice, but, I dunno, didn't wow me.
The location is good, and the fit out moody, woody, dark. Bit confusing when you walk in as no obvious reception but someone will come up and ask who you are etc and show you to the seat.
I was early so had time to review both menu and wine list in detail.
Wine list - extensive to the point of almost pretentious, but nevertheless a very good range of mainly European wines with good explanation and pictures of the regions they are from. Pretty pricey, but pretty much what you would expect from a two hat joint.
The menu is nice, and sounds good - lots of obscure flavours and references, and all in all for my current sensibilities a bit over-wrought - but that is just me, to be honest, with diners fatigue. However, having recently eaten at Monopole, another one of chef Brent Savage's establishments, I was expecting good things.
We started with fresh oysters - lovely and cold, fresh and crisp. I had Pork Cheek + Garlic and Yoghurt Puree + Radicchio + Jamon - it was interesting. The pork was very tender and soft, with a crust I couldn't identify, but only just warm. However, wonderful taste combination. Crispy fried radicchio - shades of a kale chip!!
For my main, Rangers Valley Skirt Steak + Fennel + Mustard + Olive. Hmm. Skirt steak was very tender, but again, barely warm. The fennel and mustard was delightful, but the olive a bit overpowering to my taste buds, which by now are well lubricated with a nice french burgundy.
The side of Sugar Snaps + Zucchini + Asparagus + Pinenut was interesting, with thin shaves of zucchini, a pinenut puree and crumb, and sugarsnaps and asparagus, served cold, like a salad, again not what we were expecting but flavoursome.
Dessert - why not be rude not to. So I selected the Violet Ice-Cream + Cocoa Honeycomb + Blueberry, an interesting combination beautifully arranged elements.
The service was attentive without being obtrusive, and the wine waiter helpful when our first choice was unavailable.
I will likely go again, and perhaps a review upwards may be forthcoming, but for my money I would rather go to Monopole - like I said, could be just me being a bit over fussy food, decide for yourself, it is certainly worth a visit.