Keith M.
Yelp
Full Review below. TLDR - this bacon is high quality with an unparalleled smokiness. The saltiness is over-powering and precludes eating it by itself unless you are a salt-fiend (my wife & my neighbor loved it). It's perfectly suited to being an accent/enhancement flavor to a larger dish.
Benton's is lauded as one of the finest and if you choose based on chefs' opinions, best bacons in the country. I respectfully disagree.
I wanted to love this bacon from the moment I picked up the package from the little farmer's market that carries Benton's in Knoxville. I was so happy I didn't have to drive to Madisonville to get it, and I could smell the smokehouse right through the cryovac. This is a good, good sign.
Opening the bacon smacked me with more smoky goodness and the slices were thick and beautiful. The fat-to-meat content was perfect. I chose the oven cooking method as I find it produces bacon in the texture I most enjoy. The smell while cooking this stuff was heavenly. It reminded me of parents' smokehouse growing up.
I was very torn upon my first bite of pure, unadulterated Benton's bacon. The smokiness was no disappointment. It exploded in my mouth and my mind raced with crazy thoughts of campfires, pulling shoulder from the pit, and making rope as a boyscout. I'm not lying either. Smell is rumored to evoke the most vivid memories and so, by extension, does taste (as long as its above the normal salty, sweet, sour, bitter combo). Some reviews I've seen have complained Benton's is too smoky. I disagree. The smokiness of that bacon is slap-your-momma good.
I've covered what I loved in that first bite, now I'll tell you why I was so torn in one word: salt. I'll admit I try to go easy on the salt, but I enjoy salt as an accent and a flavoring including big, fat crystals of seasalt lounging on my tomatoes. Benton's bacon takes it too far. I believe I could actually feel my blood pressure rising with every bite. This was incredibly difficult for me to deal with considering how much I loved the smokiness. I wanted to eat more, and I did, but each bite made me feel a little worse. I had to chase every slice with a glass of water.
I won't lie, this is not exactly my first rodeo with Benton's bacon. I've had it in several dishes, and I understand why its used by chefs If you eat the bacon by itself, it's just too much salt, but if you cut a chunk off a slab and put it on top of a baked oyster, its the perfect accent. Also, the beautiful coloring and fat-to-meat ratio add to presentation in a way normal bacon can't.
In summary, this bacon is high quality with an unparalleled smokiness. The saltiness is over-powering and precludes eating it by itself unless you are a salt-fiend (my wife & my neighbor loved it). It's perfectly suited to being an accent/enhancement flavor to a larger dish.