Jo Y.
Yelp
Tucked away down a lane which crosses the M5 near Cribbs, before disappearing into the depths of, well, who knows where, Berwick Lodge is an imposing red-brick mansion house recently converted into a boutique hotel by visionary couple Fevzi and Sarah Arikan. The restaurant is Chris Wicks' (of Bell's Diner, Bar One30 fame) new baby - and for me, was the main draw of this rather luxurious new establishment (opened September 2009).
As we stepped out of the taxi we were greeted by someone who took us into the house, arranged for our coats to be squirreled away and checked us in for dinner. We started with drinks and canapes - bread sticks, enormous olives and fried balls of risotto - in a drawing room oozing warmth and opulence, stuffed with grand oversized sofas and other awestruck dinner guests sipping bubbly. We'd have happily stayed there all night, but before long we were ushered through to the elegant dining room.
The menu is full of scallops, foie gras, rabbit, seabass, pork belly and the like, with a smattering of 'textures', 'purees' and the occasional 'foam' woven in (haggis porridge features an accompaniment to one dish too), exactly as you might expect if you've ever been to Bell's Diner. To kick things off, a small glass of hot, foamy crevette bisque was brought out 'courtesy of the chef'. Bursting with flavour, it was a promising glimpse of things to come. I had rabbit followed by pork belly, and the dishes were as surprising and intriguing as they were tasty. Determined to squeeze in a pudding, I opted for 'Honeycomb 'crunchy' glass but got a chocolatey concoction with almost popping-candy style crunchy bits. Not sure if I'd misread the menu or what, but it was delicious.
We retired to the drawing room for tea and coffee, feeling pleasantly full and very pleased with ourselves. As we finished up we spotted the owner, Sarah, and asked if we could have a tour of the hotel while they called us a taxi. She was happy to oblige and her excitement and pride in the place was utterly infectious as she showed off the beautiful bedrooms and bathrooms (roll-top baths and mosaics aplenty) and the amazing stained glass dome they found at a local salvage yard (you'd never have guessed it wasn't an original part of the house). My husband and I agreed that had Berwick Lodge been around when we'd been planning our wedding, we'd have been very tempted to have it there - it's a very special place.
The food at Berwick Lodge is complicated and beautiful, tasty and innovative, while the staff here are friendly and attentive - you feel very looked after and unquestionably special dining here. Quite possibly heading for a Michelin star, it's the perfect choice for a birthday or anniversary but at £39.90 for dinner (or £29.90 for lunch) and wine starting at around £20 a bottle, next time we go it'll probably just be for afternoon tea (£12) - until we've had time to save up for our next full-scale Wicks fix!