Eric H.
Yelp
Was deciding on a dinner place and ended up at Biga. Nabbed a 5pm Saturday slot on Tock, got seated by the window overlooking part of the Riverwalk. Nice view. Side note: Did you know river boat storage is in the harbor underneath the building?
As for our friendly waitstaff, he seemed to have waged many a war against fiery flame and hot iron according to his scorched hand burns. He explained to us that the menu has two sections, a la carte and a 3-course price fix. We opted for the 3-course meal.
Waters were always promptly refilled, so there was never a no need to fear dehydration. Utensils and plates were replaced for each course. Tabletops, however, were not cleaned between courses. Our waiter ignited the candle wick with a lighter.
Yes, the food is delicious. Yes, the food is good, but let me explain. It's their sauces and dressings which bring on the flavor.
Course 1:
Mixed Greens. Very sour green apples, raw red onions, grape tomatoes cut in half. By themselves, not super impressive. A slice of Brie. Ok, sure, and walnuts. And mixed greens, maybe from one of those grocery store boxes, who knows? But, those greens are lightly coated with something wonderful. What can produce such a buttery sensation in a salad? Sure, I had read the menu, but not that closely. I surmised it was a vinaigrette, for sure. But it was very light, very slight, not super sour, nor oily. Yet it produced an amazing buttery mouth feel. Menu-less, I could only fathom what it might be. How, exactly, is this vanilla bean balsamic vinaigrette made and balanced to accomplish such a sensational texture on the leaves, without any of the harshness from the vinegar?
Roasted Tomato Soup. Thin red threads, vibrant green leaves hidden beneath, crouton glaciers atop. A reasonable bowl of soup, but all the other dishes were certainly more impressively flavored. It did contain Parmesan croutons and basil pesto, although the red threads are still a mystery. Saffron? Strips of tomato skin? Red pepper? Or something else?
Course 2:
Salmon. Crispy surface, thick, just-cooked interior. Few fried garlic slices, lemon wedge, sprouts for greens on top, small dabs of green mystery dots, pickled cauliflower and carrot, fried onions, pickled peppers, crispy rice block, pool of translucent amber liquid. An impressively crispy rice block, with bouncy rice within. Wonderful with the amber liquid. The salmon, too, combined excellently with everything on the plate. Deliciously savory amber liquid referred to as charred orange nuoc cham. Is fish sauce a component? Possibly, but not necessarily. What is its composition, and how can the flavor be reproduced at home? The green dots? Avocado dots.
Lamb Rack. Reminiscent of lamb atop mashed potatoes with a slice of butter, and gravy on the side. Except it's lamb atop savory cheesy grits with a slice of marinaded feta, and mushroom veal reduction on the side. Green crust. Tasty parts, tasty whole. Tender, not chewy, nor any malodorous lipids. Interesting green crust: minced up mustard leaves somehow fried to get a crumbly texture.
Course 3:
Chocolate Zucchini Cake: Almost pillowy texture. Vanilla ice cream, chocolate shavings, and a chocolate cigarette rolled so finely. Chocolate sauce. Blackberry orange compote. Take a bite and grin as you go back for more.
Biga Sampler: Set of three. Starting with the warm apple pie spiced crumble from in the middle. Whipped cream on top, and underneath you what amounted to what tasted like nut cups from childhood. Dig deeper to get to juicy dehydrated spiced apples. Yum. Next, the triangular fudge ganache? Fudge, nutty, with raspberry sauce. Finally, save best for last, with the delectable sticky toffee pudding. Eruption of lingering toffee flavor with every bite, the dessert which will draw you back for more.