Ed Uyeshima
Google
The name doesn't sound anything like it's spelled, at least to the ear of this monolingual American tourist. It's actually pronounced 'Boh-Fahn-Zhay' - not 'Bowfinger' like the underrated Eddie Murphy-Steve Martin comedy from back in the '90's. Founded in 1864 by an Alsatian named Frederic Bofinger, it's known as an iconic brasserie in Paris and the first one my husband and I decided to try since it was just a twenty-minute walk from our hotel in Le Marais close to Place des Vosges.
It was hectic and apparently quite popular, and fortunately I squeezed in a reservation earlier that day to secure a fashionably late 9PM slot. Speaking of squeezed, it was one of those Parisian places where tables for two were pushed together to maximize the space. Luckily the diners on either side of us weren't insufferable. The decor was very French with dark woods, polished brass and red banquettes, highlighted by a scene-stealing Art Nouveau glass dome over the central dining area.
They offered a 35,90€ three-course dinner special, but the server didn't bother pointing out the selections were severely limited until I was ready to order. Even the bread basket disappointed me because it didn't include any of the complimentary pretzels I saw praised on YouTube. I was told they were out of them, but then much later in the dinner, two of them arrived on a small plate. It was a thoughtful gesture, and my husband particularly enjoyed the flavor and texture. I found them cold and dry.
We shared a classic appetizer, the 9,50€ Eggs Mayonnaise, which was superbly creamy blended with a remoulade dressing and horseradish. It sat on a bed of light sauerkraut and olive oil. We found our respective entrees disappointing. My husband ordered the 28,50€ Roasted French Duck Breast with pepper sauce, green beans, and new potatoes. Unfortunately the duck was overcooked, and the green beans were absent in favor of capers. Only the pepper sauce exceeded expectations.
I ordered the 32,50€ Grilled Rib Steak with Bernaise sauce and French fries. Yes, steak and frites, and I requested medium rare (a point), but I was surprised how chewy the meat was and almost impossible to cut with a knife. The sauce again was good and gratefully served separately. The fries were slightly burnt and a tad greasy, though unexpectedly we received mashed potatoes we didn't order. Their buttery creaminess turned out to be the highlight of this dish.
In hindsight, I wondered if I should've tried one of their signature Alsatian dishes, though the portions looked overwhelming to me. We decided to share the dessert, the 8,50€ Floating Island topped with pecans and salted butter caramel. This was perfection with the meringue impossibly light and not too sweet and the creme anglais the right flavor and consistency. Such a mix of high and lows, and along with the clipped service, it made me want to mispronounce the restaurant name. Yes, Bowfinger.
FOOD - 3 stars...perfect appetizer and dessert but the entrees were severely lacking
AMBIANCE - 4 stars...historic richness but crowded tables
SERVICE - 3 stars...rushed and sporadically attentive, seemed like they were on automatic pilot under the thumb of the head waiter
TOTAL - 3 stars...didn't live up to its legendary status, at least consistently