Bolivian Llama Party

"Three competing cholas ($11) are offered at the Bolivian Llama Party near downtown Brooklyn at Gotham Market at the Ashland, a food court. There’s a version that includes three types of pork (shoulder, belly, and bacon), and another that presents similar flavors and textures with vegetarian caramelized jackfruit. But the one I like best features roasted brisket rubbed with spices that include locoto, a tiny pepper native to Bolivia. The beef turns out crusty, rich, and peppery, and the shredded escabeche carrots add a sweet and sour highlight to the sandwich. Aioli, crumbly cheese, and purple onions round out the flavor profile. Despite its relatively compact size, the brisket chola makes a satisfying meal." - Robert Sietsema