Laramie W.
Yelp
Restaurant Review: A Strong Contender With Room to Refine
After weeks of anticipation, I dined with a party of five at one of the Disney's most talked-about new steakhouses. While the evening showcased moments of culinary brilliance and commendable hospitality, a few stumbles prevent me from awarding a full five stars. If fractional ratings were an option, this would be a solid 4.3.
Service & Atmosphere
The service throughout the evening oscillated between polished and inattentive. One of the highest notes came early on when I inquired about the restaurant's $25 signature Old Fashioned, only to learn they were out of the house bourbon that defines it. When I declined a substitution, the general manager graciously insisted on preparing the cocktail with Woodford Reserve Double Oaked--on the house. It was a gesture of peak hospitality. Unfortunately, that excellence was undercut when the cocktail failed to arrive until after appetizers were served, requiring a reminder.
Drinks & Presentation
The cocktail list, while inventive, contained several typographical errors--surprising for a restaurant of this caliber. The overall beverage program is otherwise well-rounded, with a notable wine selection and thoughtful spirit choices.
Appetizers
I began with the Red King Crab Legs ($53 for 4 oz), served chilled. Though the freshness of the crab was undeniable, the flavor was muted--more a showcase of texture than taste. The accompanying Dijon-based sauce was not to my preference, but a side of drawn butter helped elevate the experience slightly.
The true standout was the Tuna Tartare, reportedly a signature dish conceived by Chef Mina decades ago. It was, without exaggeration, one of the finest bites I've had in recent memory--expertly balanced and exceptionally fresh. Another highlight: the Truffle Bread. Often a victim of overindulgent truffle oil, this version exercised restraint, allowing the earthy essence to complement rather than overpower.
Entrées
I opted for the filet mignon, prepared medium rare with a blue cheese crust. The steak was cooked precisely to temperature but arrived disappointingly under-seasoned. Without even a whisper of salt or sear-forward char, the blue cheese dominated the palate. Once seasoned at the table, the filet improved, but for $69, expectations--particularly at a steakhouse--are considerably higher. By comparison, a well-executed filet at Texas Roadhouse for under half the price offers a more satisfying steak experience.
On the other hand, my dining companions raved about their shared Porterhouse steaks. One friend, a seasoned steak enthusiast, praised them but noted a continued preference for the offerings at Capital Grille.
The garlic mushrooms, served as a side, were flawlessly prepared--savory, aromatic, and rich without being heavy. They provided much-needed depth alongside the minimalist filet.
Dessert
For dessert, I selected the Crème Brûlée Cheesecake--a hybrid of two favorites. The execution was visually beautiful, with strawberries softened to perfection, likely roasted as noted by our server. The brûléed exterior provided a satisfying crunch, while the interior, at first texturally odd (slightly powdery and overly sweet), gradually won me over. It's an inventive dessert that may divide diners but deserves credit for ambition.
Final Thoughts
At $167 for my meal (crab, filet, and dessert), the price point felt aspirational, though not always justified. Still, the ambiance, occasional service flourishes, and moments of culinary excellence--particularly the unforgettable Tuna Tartare--make this a restaurant I'm eager to revisit.
Next time, I'll be ordering the Tuna Tartare myself--and I won't be sharing.
