James G.
Yelp
When it comes to famous restaurants with lengthy histories, I tend to view them with trepidation. Having grown up in New York City, with its fair share of famous restaurants that are sustained more by the custom of visitors than by that of locals and knowing that they are usually overpriced and terra incognita to locals, I usually give places of similar stature a wide berth when I'm travelling. And so it came as a surprise that I found myself on my first evening in Lyon at Brasserie Georges, one of this city's most venerable institutions. The reason for our visit had more to do with lassitude and exhaustion than a particular desire to dine here (add in the fact that it was Sunday, and not many places are open), but suffice it to say I have learned a lesson.
On our arrival, my first thought was that we were not dressed well enough to dine here--the interior is very elegantly decorated and looks like the kind of place that one dresses up to visit--but when I asked if we would be welcome as we were, the maître d' gave us a happy "bien sûr" and showed us to a table (outside, which was our preference anyway). Many of the other people dining here that night were not obviously tourists, and quite a good portion were French, so that was a surprise. And though the place looks like it might be an overpiced tourist trap, the prices were on par with what we had seen at other places.
We began with a glass of pastis while we looked at the extensive menu. As we did so, a neighbouring table that had ordered the steak tartare was having it prepared at tableside by their waiter, and it looked pretty good so my partner ordered that, while I ordered a half-dozen escargots to start and the famed quenelle de brochet as my main course. The snails were delicious, with the best sauce we have had with them in a while. When our waiter came to prepare the steak tartare, he did so with a great deal of humour, which we reciprocated (I speak French, so there was no language gap) and which in turn led to his joking with us for the rest of the evening when the opportunity presented itself. The tartare was perfect--the condiments, the sauce, and the meat all of high quality and prepared adeptly, but the quenelle was the star of the evening. This was my first time ordering this famous Lyonnais dish, so I have nothing to compare it with, but the flavour of the quenelle was exceptional, as was the lobster-and-seafood sauce that came with it. It was nothing short of revelatory, and I'm very glad I ordered it. Though we didn't really need dessert, we decided to share the feuilletine, which was a nice way to end the meal.
In the end we thoroughly enjoyed this meal, and especially appreciated the fact that we had a two-minute walk to get back to our hotel room. But even if we had had further to go, this would have been a most worthwhile stop on our two-week French holiday, and I would recommend it without hesitation.