Brunchies

"In their line of duty, food writers must always have a Robert Jenrick-esque respect for flags. A red, yellow and green Bolivian flag hung on a corner of Coldharbour Lane suddenly makes Brunchies visible ─ delve deeper and it’s possible to find not only generic brunch fare but an all Bolivian kitchen starting to tentatively branch out into hearty meat platters that compete with Latin House opposite. The coating of their pollo a la canasta ─ BFC ─ is rugged and craggy, with a well-seasoned ordnance survey map of ridges, peaks, and valleys. It comes on top of the holy trinity of chips, rice and plantain, a coma in a polystyrene box. Lechon al horno comes as a thick strap of pork shoulder, about the size of a mobile phone in a 1980s movie, skin cooked not to a crisp, but to the texture of a wine gum. The idea is that the future menu will be split in two and never the twain shall meet, but wouldn’t a lechon benedict be a great excuse to finally eat brunch?" - Jonathan Nunn