Gary G.
Yelp
At the intersection of Park Ave and Chandler St, with an L-shaped parking lot with entrances from both. Across the parking lot you can see the smoke stack behind a fence, so they smoke onsite. Four panhandlers outside on my visit, one at each corner of Park & Chandler. Operation is takeout only, cafeteria style. First you order sides (smart move; nobody does that), then fried chicken and pulled barbecue meats (all from warmed stainless steel pans), then carved-to-order brisket and ribs (under a heat lamp).
Brisket: Similar to vintage BT's Sturbridge from their heyday of a few years back: soft, floppy, barky, strongly salty (though not overboard), and strongly smoky (ditto). Lots of fat had to be trimmed away, but the ultimate portion was still at least the ordered half pound. Mix of point and flat, with the point luscious and the flat beyond merely moist. Great benchmark for the first visit.
Rib: A single spare, got one from the long end. Really nice smoke, good bark, a little firmer than ideal, and moist at first bite but increasingly dry as I went along. Probably a reheat.
Pork and Beef Chili: A special; fewer chunks of brisket than in their burnt ends chili, but still a good amount, and I like the little pieces too. Those had a little sweetness too them like sweet sausage, which is what BT added to the chili in the early Sturbridge days after removing the beans. Nice heat and smoke, a little oily but in a good way.
Fried chicken: Big pieces of boneless thigh, the size of an outstretched hand. Thick, crunchy batter with a little tartness from buttermilk. Well seasoned and moist. Remember, it's been sitting and waiting to be ordered, so not as primo as the fried chicken special on first Tuesdays in Sturbridge, but very good. I've seen some complaints about the $5 per piece. It's bigger than a KFC breast, better than a KFC breast, and not corporate like KFC, so calm down please.
Sides: Baked beans different from Sturbridge; softer and more like Boston baked beans with a little sweet and more heat. Potato salad also different: much less condiment and much less spice; basically quartered red bliss potatoes. Black eyed pea salad refreshing and cool, good complement to the smoke.
Three servers were all new and all extremely friendly. Two bathrooms a plus. It looks like the area for dining once Covid goes away is fairly small.