Steph C.
Yelp
My husband and I got an unanticipated toddler-free dinner during a recent trip to New York. The only catch was we had to make a same-day reservation for 8:30 on a Friday night, not exactly the easiest time to book a meal at a destination restaurant. Thankfully, we found availability at Cagen, a sushi joint that had been in my bookmarks for ages, and that showed up on a Resy guide of omakase spots in the city. I guess this place has been around long enough that it's no longer a tough reservation. Good news for us. Our dinner here was outstanding.
Cagen is a small, intimate sushi bar, situated slightly below ground on 9th Street in the East Village. We were one of three couples getting omakase in the front room that night (there's also a back room with a more expensive omakase), and the vibe was comfortable and relaxed, but not without ceremony. Service was great, both from the server and Chef Hiromi, who took time to make sure we knew what we were eating even as she prepared each piece of fish with meticulous care. There were several unusual offerings on the menu, and the chef had laminated print-outs ready to dispense, with names and pictures of these less common fish.
The food was delicious. Dinner started with a teacup of gazpacho with whitefish, watermelon, edamame, corn, and cilantro, a refreshing little appetizer on a warm night. Then the chef sliced and dispensed pickled young ginger--incredibly tasty and addictive, with a softer bite than the usual, both in flavor and texture--and started dispensing top quality sushi.
The omakase included twelve nigiri and one hand roll for $150. Definitely expensive, and not a hulking amount of food, but you can do much worse when it comes to high-end sushi. My husband had a flight of sake with his dinner, and I added an extra nigiri at the end of the meal, and both add-ons were well worthwhile.
All of the fish was fresh and flavorful and lovingly, delicately prepared. There was kue, or kelp grouper, finished with a little bit of pickled plum, real wasabi, yuzu, and Himalayan rock salt. Konbu-marinated fluke came with a ponzu and a dab of jalapeño. Yokoshima sawara, a Spanish mackerel, came with a combination of Japanese mustard and honey mustard, a flavor I'd never had with sushi but which made perfect sense with this fish. Next, there was takabe, or yellow strip, gently seared and brushed with soy sauce, then king salmon with Japanese-style ginger and yuzu juice. Shima aji, or striped jack, came simply with a bit of soy sauce, and then there was a beautiful, sweet spotted prawn finished with yuzu. Kinmedai and bonito came with soy sauce, silky scallop with yuzu and truffle salt. The omakase ended with tuna three different ways: a gorgeous bluefin tuna nigiri on a freshly toasted piece of nori, a melting piece of soft pink toro, and a toro hand roll with daikon and jalapeño.
At this point, we were asked if we wanted to add any more nigiri, and I ordered the Hokkaido uni (this was also available as a full tray for a lot more money, but my husband, alas, does not eat uni). This was stellar, a sweet, creamy bite, with plenty of uni and a band of Cagen's very nice nori. I see now that you can in fact get dessert at this restaurant, but this was never presented as an option. I certainly wouldn't have minded a piece of tamago, or a cup of ice cream or sorbet.
In any case, we enjoyed the hell out of this omakase dinner. I'd recommend Cagen if you're looking for an easy reservation at a restaurant worthy of a fuck-it-I'm-on-vacation splurge.