John S.
Yelp
Andale has been replaced by . . . Calavera, an even more overpriced Mexican restaurant-bar that manages to be worse than Andale was, if a bit more attractive.
I'll start with the good, because there's so little of it. The new seating area seems much larger than Andale's was, and that's good, because it's just much nicer to eat at a table like a human being than trying to scarf down food in a slightly yet nevertheless maddeningly angled airport seat. There are more tables, and they're spaced farther apart than Andale's were. And there are both doubles and four-tops. The soyrizo in my burrito was also good.
Andale was definitely overpriced, but you got a lot for your money, at least for an airport restaurant. The burrito I ordered from Calavera wouldn't qualify as a baby burrito at most San Francisco taquerias; it was more like a regular-sized burrito that had been cut in half. It tasted fine, but it was mainly rice and some beans. There was no cheese, salsa verde, or crema to speak of; and the delicious but microscopic bit of soyrizo occupied its own special place in the very center of the burrito, like a plastic toy in a European Kinder Egg. But I don't want the protein of my burrito to be a delightful add-on. I want to savor it, but I couldn't, because it was so small.
Self-serve fountain drinks are $4, which doesn't seem like that much of a ripoff, especially at an airport, until you realize that they don't offer lids, so while ostensibly you could get quite a few free refills during a particularly long layover, you'd be worried about spilling your drink everywhere. And don't tell me that not offering lids is Calavera's way of being more environmentally friendly. If they cared about the environment, they'd have regular paper cups rather than the ridiculous plastic ones they use.
Why does OAK keeping whiffing on improving its food options? I don't care how nice a place looks. I just want variety, if not the tiniest bit of value. Calavera is definitely a step down, but it's shiny and pretty, so I'm sure most people love it.