Canteen | Notting Hill

"A casual Italian restaurant in Notting Hill, London, offering fuss-free dishes in a cool, modern setting."

"Canteen doesn’t have a wow factor, but perhaps that’s intentional given its name. The scene-y Italian spot in Notting Hill is from the same well-to-do family as The Pelican and The Hero and, like those two, maintains a carefully cultivated atmosphere of informality. Here, aperitivos are scrawled across stainless steel, shoddily cut ox cheek agnolotti tastes much better than it looks, and people who know people called Tiger discuss raves in Hackney Wick. The menu spans everything you’d expect from a west Londoner that’s well-travelled in Italy and the cooking is flavourful, if a little rough around the edges. Pasta stays in a tad too long and plates arrive with a smear, but there’s plenty to like, as well as lashings of The Good Oil you use sparingly at home. On the menu, you might notice plenty of inspiration from the restaurant where the chefs came from. It’s some place called The River Café. The name and the walk-in-only policy suggests there’s a desire to be down-to-earth here, but you’re more likely to find truffle than dirt under the fingernails of regulars at this canteen. Still, there’s nothing phoney about the buzz when you’re sitting at the counter. If you’re looking for a lunch that leads to bad decisions later, Canteen is a good place to start. Food Rundown Ox Cheek Agnolotti The filling of this pasta is wonderful. Tender, rich strands that fall apart in your mouth. The pasta’s a bit sloppy, mind. Oddly folded in parts, al dente in the middle, but over on the sides. It’s nearly a great bowl, and the broth with a few sprigs of thyme is good too. photo credit: Jake Missing Scallops, Chickpeas, Winter Tomatoes This plate of three 50p-sized scallops is delicious. Well seared, still bouncy, on a tablespoon’s worth of chickpeas and slices of sweet, ruby red tomatoes. It’s a lovely little plate. It’s also priced at well over £20. photo credit: Jake Missing Morello Cherry Frangipane Tart There’s a great crumble on this pastry and the centimetre or so of frangipane is sweet, without being overpowering. There just needs to be more cherry. It’s in the name, but it’s barely seen on the plate." - Jake Missing