Jen M.
Yelp
Honestly, the most exciting restaurant in the Midwest that I've visited since 2019.
Casa Bovina is a nod to what is happening on both coasts, but those big brother endcaps are still too self-absorbed to notice that the observant other brother is doing just fine and creating masterpieces in the middle of their back -and-forth.
Casa Bovina is a place where attention and pride are both on display and proudly relatable.
If you're looking for reality-show drama in an open kitchen, you won't find it here... The kitchen is quiet, disciplined, sniper-like in their communications. It's all eyebrows and glances and shoulder shrugs in Morse code until the guy brings out the perfectly tender pasta to a cheese wheel that costs more than most folks' rent.
The real drama begins as everyone stops chewing just to see a blue flame in a wheel of cheese-- even if just 10 minutes ago the same flaming wheel of cheese didn't roll up to their own table, same charming and skilled Chef, same pause in attention, didn't just happen to their table as well.
And about that pasta that was rushed to the table and finished in the dramatic wheel of Gran Kinara cheese and fresh ground black pepper?!
That pasta is fucking glorious .
The plating is music, the perfection in cooking to temp is unmatched (scallops were perfectly caramelized and meltingly mid-rare), while the duck breast crackled like the best brûlée, and the meat below wept in released fat onto perfectly warm, garnet breast.
Honestly, I haven't even begun to understand what a golden berry is, but I'm convinced it's a magical apricot-cherry type fruit that only exists in the mind of a chef at Casa Bovina-- it's magical!!
Dare I mention the pastrami cured medallion of Foie Gras, nestled atop an airy crisp of brioche? Honestly, who even *DOES* that with Foie?!
We also sampled the popular favorite (Tajarin), and I'm here to say that it measures up to the hype-- Its a celebration of the simple meeting the skilled, and it's worth it.
Every course came with a fresh, attentive reset of our silver and settings, it was so smooth that I didn't even notice the change in napkins, silver or settings-- graceful and definitely impressive by Midwest standards (is this ordinary by coastal standards? Seems this level of service is rare).
The wine selection and offerings by the server were excellent-- but he truly shined when he made a fruit-centric mocktail on the fly for my friend who doesn't drink alcohol! He never condescended her by offering just a soft drink; he made her something for her palate, was seasonal and gorgeous, and was thoughtful.
Eli at the bar is most talented, kind, patient and thoughtful, again-- it was a much appreciated gesture that he catered not only to those of us drinking wine, but also the friend who wanted something non-alcoholic.
Start to finish, this place is worth the time (expect to have a leisurely meal), and the money. It's worth every penny, and it deserves consideration! James Beard awards in the future with this restaurant and their vision!