Shakes Wang
Google
The castle itself is marvellous, and at only 400 Lek per person – with a further 200 Lek for the museum – it represents excellent value. I would highly recommend paying the small extra fee for the museum, which is extremely well curated, with fascinating exhibits and an impressive collection of weaponry that truly brings the history to life.
That said, the journey there is not for the faint-hearted. The roads are paved with uneven bricks, so you should be prepared for a bumpy and rather uncomfortable drive. Most of the approach consists of steep inclines and descents, with scarcely a proper stretch of road in sight. To make matters worse, the route is exceedingly narrow, and the parking situation is chaotic at best. My advice would be to secure a parking spot before reaching the brick road, while the street is still comparatively wide.
Leaving the site was a trial in itself. What ought to have been a short drive took me over twenty minutes, during which I nearly scraped the wall more than once thanks to a series of hairpin bends and absurdly tight turns. Add in the constant presence of pedestrians and oncoming cars, and it is an ordeal to rival the castle’s medieval defences. I must confess, I quite literally sweated through my shirt in the process!
Still, once inside the castle, all is forgiven. The panoramic views, the sense of history, and especially the museum more than justify the effort. If you can face the roads, it is an experience not to be missed.