Sara Day T.
Yelp
Yes, of course this place is perfect. The seasonal, locally sourced menu. The exquisite craftsmanship of the dishes (I mean, a burger that could fit on a 10p coin!). The elegant transitions from canapés to amuse-bouche to starter to main to dessert to coffee by charming, well-trained staff. Literally, perfection.
That said, Michelin-starred, celebrity chef dining is not really my thing. My husband and I recently dined here with a set lunch voucher - a really thoughtful wedding gift from two wonderful friends. I wish I could say I was looking forward to a refined, romantic lunch with the hubs, but to be honest, just the production of reserving a table and anticipating the whole experience was making me a bit apprehensive. I love elaborate food experiences - I love talking with the creators about the breath-taking and mouth-watering meals they have shared with others. I love a complex, perplexing menu and eating outside my comfort zone. However, at Castle Terrace, somewhere in the parade of well-versed wait staff, the line between a satisfying eating experience and a staged play is grotesquely crossed. I feel the restaurant - the chef, the staff, the other diners- are putting on a choreographed performance for me and that I feel obliged to perform for them.
The food, though not always visibly identifiable, was delicious. Each, tiny detail showed thoughtfulness and perfect execution. The cooking (and chef-ing) could not be faulted. However, I find that the more stylised food becomes, the less interested I am in eating it.The gazpacho amuse-bouche, for example, flavoured with tiny clay-looking balls of garlic and herb suspended in a clear jelly. My inability to come around to cold soup aside, I like garlic that still looks like garlic and herbs that look like herbs, as god intended. Call me a barbarian, but I like plants.
I realise this artistry and performance is why most people enjoy going to restaurants like Castle Terrace - the height of civilisation, to eat where it is not only acceptable but awarded with coveted stars to play with one's food, mould it and manicure it until it is beyond recognition. Would I recommend Castle Terrace to someone looking for a fine dining experience? To someone who wants to be wined and dined like royalty? Of course, I would call and make the table reservation myself. Would I return? No. But it's not a criticism of quality, I just like to eat food that looks like food, off plates where there's more food than plate. With the other plebs...
In an effort to be balanced, there were a few small things that I found delightful. The glassware, for instance (bear with me) - I love a place that has all the appropriate glassware. A glass for literally every measurement of liquid. 330ml bottle of beer? They have a glass. 500ml bottle of beer? They have a glass. Red wine, white wine, port, brandy, whisky? All with their corresponding glass. Adorable, kind of like a fully-kitted doll house. My inner 8-yr old girl was just thrilled. Also, the beautiful wooden (walnut?) cheese tray, wheeled out in cheesy majesty gave me intense dining-furniture envy. And, obviously, cheese selection envy. Although, despite this, my husband and I both went for the crème brûlée - delicious, if the carmelised sugar topping was a touch on the delicate side for me - I like a bigger crack to tap through to the creamy, custardy base.
Girlish amusement aside, when you call to make a reservation: 1) leave a few MONTHS advance notice for a weekend table, and in some cases a weekday table and 2) upon making the reservation, you will have to fork over the credit card details because they charge £30 per head (for lunch) for a cancellation less than 24 hours ahead of the reservation. They did not take the deposit ahead of time, but they did hold my card details. This might be the norm for the almighty Michelin league, but I found it a bit disconcerting.
As a final effort of equitability, the other diners seemed to be enjoying themselves thoroughly - a mix (from how it appeared) of backgrounds and walks of life. Everyone was incredibly pleasant and if I had even an ounce more cultivation and refinement this review would be all praise and no buts. It's perhaps an experience everyone should have at least once, just to see how the other side lives ;)