Ken W.
Yelp
If you're hungry and unfamiliar with Boyle Heights, driving through this community can be a challenge. Like an apex predator sizing up a gigantic school of synchronized herring, sensory overload is inevitable. All the hand-painted signs for antojitos, tamales, tortas, tacos, burritos, and agua fresca don't help. There are tons of places to eat, and they all seem the same. ¡¡Ay, Dios mío!!
Cemita Poblanas Elvirita, is one of those eateries you wouldn't give a second glance. Directly across from Evergreen Cemetary, the address number is barely visible from the street, and since it's only one storefront east of Evergreen Boulevard you've probably sped by after beating the yellow light at the intersection, never noticing its plain-jane sign. The restaurant itself seems to blend in with the neighborhood, making these cemitas a treasure worth stumbling upon.
A cemita is a mexican sandwich with origins in the Mexican city of Puebla, but unlike a torta which is served on a delicate bolillo, a cemita comes on a sturdier sesame seed egg roll that looks like a large hamburger bun. I've never been a huge fan of tortas since they tend to fall apart on me at mid-sandwich, but these cemitas? Not once, and I love that.
My very first cemita was the beef milanesa; beef pounded incredibly thin, breaded, then deep fried to a deep brown and kept company by slivers of avocado, onions, thick slices of a white, crumbly mexican cheese, and a bit of smoky chipotle sauce that was surprisingly spicy to me (I'm a wuss). The roll was nice and chewy without being stubborn; the milanesa tended to slip out on me on a few bites. Pretty darned good, but a little on the bland side, even with the chipotle.
My second try was the carnitas version, with the chipotle sauce on the side (the green jalapeño would be way to spicy). The carnitas was tender and savory; a much better choice for me in the this sandwich, but on my third try I got the carnitas cemita with the quesillo (a mexican string cheese) and wow... Just wow...
The quesillo is on the salty side, more than regular string cheese, but gave a nice savory quality to this sandwich. It almost didn't need any of the chipotle salsa, the slightly toasted chewy roll giving way to tender carnitas and stringy cheese with a little bit of crisp from the onion. It's hard for me to remember when I had a sandwich this delicious. CAN it get better than this? If so, I want to know. It's not everyday that a Mexican sandwich makes you sigh with contentment.
Cemitas Poblanas Elvirita (cash only!!) is a pretty provincial place. If you can't speak spanish, forget about asking too many questions. If I didn't know any better, I'd pass the place up, too; but the people there are very nice.
It's not fancy, the menuboard consisting of mugshots of the restaurant's offerings. In addition to cemitas, there are tacos, expensive quesadillas (that actually may be totally worth the price), memelas, and other really "ethnic" dishes, but clearly the cemita is the king here.
There is also no parking lot from what I saw on my walks over there from work. It's not the perfect place to bring a date, but my carnitas cemitas with the quesillo (quesillo is extra) and a bottle of Jarritos soda cost me $7.00 total, which is a bargain considering how good this sandwich is.
To know Boyle Heights is to love Boyle Heights, and all of it's deliciousness: El Tepeyac, Lilliana's, Los Cinco Puntos, La Mascota Bakery, the fresh pan dulce at El Rinconcito's bakery, Al & Bea's, et cetera, et cetera... After a few take-out orders from Cemitas Poblanas Elvirita, I'd have to say that a cemita (or cemita poblana) is truly a wonderful, wonderful thing.
A cemita may be a little rough around the edges, but this perfect little sandwich is in no need of gentrification.