Ceylon Tea Trails - Castlereagh Bungalow

"Why book? “Downton Abbey in the tropics” is how Tea Trails founder Malik Fernando describes his one-of-a-kind hotel. And, while it’s a cluster of beautifully-restored bungalows in Sri Lanka’s hill country, rather than a whopping British stately pile, the make-yourself-at-home vibe gives it a house party feel. Couple that with an extraordinarily lush setting, exquisite food, and first-rate staff. Set the scene Deep in verdant Bogawantalawa Valley, the serenity here is a welcome break from the throng of the south coast beaches. Loved-up honeymooners, couples, and families (only older children are encouraged) rock up here for peace and quiet. And it’s easy to see why, with rolling tea plantations as far as the eye can see—except for the glisten of Castlereagh Lake, its banks home to three of the bungalows (Summerville, Castlereagh, and Dunkeld). Norwood is at the other end of the valley, about 15 minutes away by car, and Tientsin is about 30 minutes away in the next valley. But fear not: These two have the best gardens. Either way, no one misses out—guests can trek, mountain bike, or kayak to the other residences for a swim and a bite to eat, or to simply explore. The backstory Tea Trails is owned by the Fernando family of leading Sri Lankan tea company Dilmah, under the Resplendent Ceylon brand. Eldest son Malik, a self-declared “accidental hotelier,” turned down a job at McKinsey in Boston to return to his homeland to join the family business. Captivated by the charm of the historic tea planter bungalows, he decided to transform them into a hotel. Tea Trails opened in 2005, followed by Cape Weligama, near Galle, in 2014, and Wild Coast Tented Lodge in Yala National Park in 2017. Three more hotels are planned, under Malik’s new Reverie brand. The rooms There are 27 rooms spread across the five bungalows. Each has about six acres of garden and comes with a household of staff (your own butler, house manager, and chef). The look is eclectic colonial with timber ceilings, mahogany antiques, chintz armchairs, and clawfoot baths. Black and white photographs dot the walls. There are no mod cons which means no keys, no sound system, no televisions. Bliss. Bedrooms aside, each residence has its own features—a billiards room in Norwood, an infinity pool in Dunkeld, the superb garden suites in Castlereagh, the roaring fires in Summerville, and the rose terraces at Tientsin. Honeymooners love Dunkeld’s one-bedroom Owner’s Cottage, with its private outdoor hot tub. Food and drink Each bungalow has its own kitchen, and there’s no menu. Instead, your chef asks every morning what you would like. Plump for string hoppers for breakfast and continue the Sri Lankan theme with rice and curry at lunch. The four-course dinner is always sensational—feast on anything from progressive local cuisine to British classics. Do try their tea-infused dishes (the mushroom soup with vanilla rose tea essence is sublime). Beforehand, ask your butler to conjure up any cocktail you want (they also make an excellent G&T) then settle down on a cane chaise on your terrace and soak up the soaring views. Best of all, you can dine anywhere on the property (the lakeside summerhouses are lovely), and such is the convivial atmosphere that people often end up eating together on their last night. The neighborhood/area A must-do is a tour of the estate with veteran tea planter Bernard, who will give you the lowdown on all things tea. Then tuck into a traditional tiffin lunch together at the top of the mountain. Otherwise, head off along one of the clearly-marked bungalow trails, scale Adam’s Peak (a 30-minute drive away), or try your hand at white water rafting in nearby Kitugala. But Tea Trails is a special place, so make sure you spend time here as well; lounge in the garden, kayak on the lake, play the odd game of croquet (each bungalow has its own set), or simply curl up beside the fire in the paneled library with a good book. The service All the staff are local and many have been here since the hotel opened, which means they are reassuringly knowledgeable. It’s relaxed and personalized, and everything is done for you, but not intrusively. You’ll even find a hot water bottle waiting in your bed at night. For families Although there is no flat rule, Tea Trails encourage older children rather than toddlers—partly so that peace and quiet is maintained, and partly because walks are the main activity. That said, you can beat each other at croquet and splash about in the pools. Norwood has the biggest garden and a large pool—great for kids letting off steam. Or there’s Dunkeld, where you can pack the brood off to the one-bedroom cottage. Eco effort There is an impressive focus on the local community. Through the Empower Culinary and Hospitality School, the hotel trains tea pickers’ children and now has a couple of budding chefs in their kitchen. They also have a leopard conservation station to protect the big cats on the nearby highland, which guests can visit and track animal movements. Accessibility Norwood bungalow has ramps. Castlereagh and Dunkeld are entirely flat-surfaced. Anything left to mention? If you want to bag a specific bungalow, book ahead as Tea Trails gets booked up months (if not a year) in advance." - Harriet Compston