Melissa N.
Yelp
I've been to multiple National Parks in the Southwest with ruins, and this is by far my favorite one.
Mesa Verde up north gets a lot of hype, and it should - it's beautiful and the ruins are amazing. Mesa Verde is also super crowded, and to get to most of the major ruins (Cliff Palace, Balcony House), you need to be on a ranger-guided tour, which often feels rushed.
Chaco Canyon, on the other hand, has just as impressive ruins as Mesa Verde (if not more so), and you can get up close and personal with them. You can actually walk through most of them, and the petroglyph trails are amazing. And the park isn't nearly as crowded as Mesa Verde, probably because it's a difficult park to get to when compared to Mesa Verde.
Getting to Chaco Canyon, to put it bluntly, is not fun. The road getting there from Nageezi/550 is sixteen miles of washboard hell. I've discovered that the trick to this is to drive at about 30mph at all times, because then the bumps aren't SO bad (they are still bad). Occasionally, the park dumps gravel onto the road, so if you can get there right after they do that, it's not so bad. The gravel, unfortunately, is usually long gone within a month. Your car may need a front end alignment after your trip - I'd recommend a rental if you can afford it.
But once you get to Chaco Canyon, it's magic. It's not a busy park - I've never seen more than probably a dozen people in one place at one time in the park, and that includes the campground. I'd recommend going in April, May, September, or October - before it is bitterly cold at night (you'll probably want to spend at least one night here because of how difficult it is to get into and out of the park) and before/after the intense heat of the desert summer. Bring plenty of water - you will need it, even in these months.
The ruins are amazing, and like I said, you can get up close and personal with most of them. There are also a few backcountry trails that I would recommend. The Pueblo Alto Complex one is the more strenuous of the two, but you can get some gorgeous views of the ruins from up above, plus see some that many tourists who stay on the paved loop don't get to see.
But I highly recommend the Peñasco Blanco trail. It's not horribly strenuous - the end does get a little iffy when you have to climb up the side of Chacra Mesa - but it is so, so worth the time that it takes to get here (prepare for a six hour round trip). The ruins are unexcavated and look much as they have for hundreds of years. Few make this trip, so there is a good chance that you will be alone here. And there are still shards of pottery laying on the ground (look along the walls of the ruins - the whole perimeter) where they have been for hundreds of years. It's absolutely amazing! There's also a great petroglyph trail along the way, as well as some "hidden" petroglyphs that aren't pointed out on any map, so pay attention! :)
I am not in the best of shape, and I have done both of these backcountry trails without much problem (just took it easy and brought plenty of water), so if I can do it, nearly anyone can!
The campground is nice, and I've never had a problem showing up and getting a tent site the same day. There's a small ruin that you can see from most of the campground, so that's a nice thing to see first thing in the morning, really gets you in the mood for some hiking. Wijiji is also near here, so if you get to the campground relatively late in the day (after 4pm-ish) and don't want to start on the loop, you can make the short hike there and get some viewing in anyway. There is a flight path somewhere above Chaco, so the night sky isn't completely unpolluted, but you can still see tons of stars on clear nights.
Like I said, this is my favorite park that I have been to the in the Southwest. Do a quick drive through of Mesa Verde, but spend your time here. It's just as impressive, if not more so, and you can wander to your heart's content without being rushed along. I'd also recommend hitting up Aztec if you're coming down along 550!