Danny K (DSKO)
Google
Charles H is an upscale speakeasy hidden behind an unscripted door in the basement of the Four Seasons Seoul. Its decor is reminiscent of Prohibition-era with its Art Deco facades, opulent polished marble, backlit bar and grainy leather booths.
Charles H was once on the renowned World’s 50 Best Bars list in 2021 and 2022, at which point their head bartender Keith Motsi left to open Virtu Tokyo. Regardless of its ranking, it is still one of the top bars in Seoul.
The elaborate menu reads like a tour guide. The name of the bar is an homage to the explorer, author of “The Gentleman’s Companion”, connoisseur and one of the world’s pioneering mixologists, Charles H. Baker. Once the Prohibition began in the United States, Charles traveled the world in search of fine foods and unique liquor.
We were brought Amuse Bouche, a spoon of sashimi in a citrus oil sauce and potato chips. The first cocktail me and one of my colleagues tried was called the “Mojito Colada”. It is the fusion of the classic Mojito and Piña Colada. The herbal freshness of the mint and the subtle union of lime, rum and creamy coconut milk was a delightful drink.
The second drink I ordered is called “Black & White,” which contains whisky, Oloroso sherry, milk tea, roasted almond, candied rose and a whole egg. I’ll have to say that the egg overpowered every other ingredient and actually made me kind of nauseous. I’m getting a little queasy thinking about it now, even weeks later. With the milk tea, I think the cocktail would’ve worked without the egg. Whipped eggs tend to work better in more spirit forward drinks. I don’t think it worked at all in this concoction. Overall, the first visit was a great experience apart from the aforementioned egg-forward cocktail.
For a follow up visit, I discovered that the cocktail menu had completely changed since my last visit in February apart from the Velvet Martini. The menu now has cocktails that are themed after different countries around the world.
The first cocktail I had was a sublime Riviera Martini made with Stoli Vodka and features Herbs de Provence. For appetizers we ordered the Hanwoo Beef Tartare and fried chicken. For the second cocktail, the bartender recommended the Love from Lima, which is a twist on a Pisco Sour, with passionfruit curd and a foam made from vanilla-corn espuma instead of a conventional egg white. It was bright, creamy and delicious.
We also decided to order the house burger, which had the bold seasoning of chipotle sauce that I never expected to taste in Korea. Finally, I ordered the Margherita-Margarita, which is a very creative concept by the head bartender Odd Strandbakken, featuring Altos Plata Tequila, San Marzano tomatoes, oregano, basil, with a streak of fresh whey and toasted salt to provide a crust-like flavor along the rim of the glass. Somehow it works remarkably well, kudos to Odd and the entire staff at Charles H on the newly reinvented cocktail menu.