Steve G.
Yelp
Much has changed since the pre-Covid version of Chen's 22. While several of the prior negative observations have been remedied (service was attentive, complimentary bowl of fried noodles wasn't soggy), on balance the changes were in the wrong direction.
It is very obvious that new management is in charge, no more so than the caliber of cooks in their kitchen. The decor has been pared-down to largely unadorned gray walls. Tables are now far fewer in number, making for an airier and more relaxed setting. They seem to have removed most of the rarely-found dishes that made Chen's 22 a special experience. A full page of their menu is now dedicated to steamed seafood pots, a trend that is now appearing everywhere. To its credit, post-Covid pricing has yet to be implemented.
We began our dinner for two with Shrimp Rolls. While generous with shrimp, flavorless and unseasoned steamed cabbage was the bulk of the roll. The wrapper, however, is where this app really went off the rails. Thick, tough and bland sheets of dough were four layers thick at some points. Hats off for providing authentic mustard when requested, it was needed to bring flavor to our entrees as well. Mustard aside, the Shrimp Rolls were an embarrassment to the kitchen.
We were seeking basic and uncomplicated Chinese fare, a relative rarity for us. Ordered for sharing were Pork Lo Mein and Jumbo Shrimp In Lobster Sauce; both were flavorless, unspired and cooked with the passion and attention of a cheap takeout joint. The phrase "totally lacking unami" isn't often heard when discussing Asian food, but certainly applied to these dishes. To their credit, the shrimp were large, relatively plentiful and properly cooked. Offsetting this was a very watery, unseasoned lobster sauce. The lo mein was also lacking in ginger, garlic, scallion, adequate quantities of roast pork or adequate seasoning. Where large portion size was a hallmark of the "old" Chen's 22, the current standard is barely adequate.
While I won't say that this dinner didn't 'hit-the-spot' on a night when we were seeking simplicity, at $20/person there was little value for the money. I hope that the new ownership, and in particular, the kitchen staff can find their footing. For the present time we would be reluctant to return to Chen's 22 anytime soon.