Brad S.
Yelp
Read most of my reviews of Chinese restaurants and you'll see a lot the same ho-hum meat-veggie-sauce rhetoric that I espouse to fill up space and make it seem like I'm not completely ambivalent. I was fully expecting China Inn to be another one of these kind of places, which is why I've put off visiting for four years. Joke's on me, because after finally stopping in, I'm surprised to find a Chinese restaurant that's doing something more than the absolute minimum.
In my effort to try as many different things as possible, I convinced my date to try the family meal with me, and my interest was piqued from the moment I was given my wonton soup: it was seasoned! The dumplings weren't just filled with little pieces of pieces of mystery meat, but large pieces of pork! With additional pieces of pork just kind of chilling out in the broth! It was perhaps the best version of the soup I've ever had, if only because it wasn't the same. There was effort here.
Along with soup, the family dinner came with sample size portions of spare ribs, tender but in a sickly sweet sauce, a decent egg roll, and an average "puffy" (tempura fried) shrimp. The attempts at differentiation continued with the main courses: the pepper beef and sweet and sour pork. It tasted like they started with actual cuts of meat, which worked fine for the beef, though it was rough going with the pork, which was much chewier than was enjoyable. Compounding issues was the sauce, which was much more sweet than sour, although brownie points went to the large chunks of pineapple and actual cuts of cabbage used to provide a little bit of contrast in flavors and textures. When asked if I wanted fried or steamed rice, I opted for one of each, expecting the fried rice to be greasy. What I got instead was a dark, rich, and not-at-all-greasy rendition that was another surprising success.
The dinner ended with a complimentary almond cookie. China Inn is not your run-of-the-mill Chinese restaurant that's just serving the Americanized Chinese food that the Great Walls of the city are churning out; it's making attempts to make this food taste good through the use of better ingredients and going above and beyond the bare minimum. Like the lounge singer crooning the classics in China Inn's lounge on Saturday night, it's not great, but it's better than okay.