Steve Replogle
Google
Chow Morso Osteria is the cool younger sister to Denver’s very best Italian restaurant, Barolo Grill. This kid sister has a happening place downtown, near Union Station and all the other LoDo hotspots. Her place is a little more casual than her big sister’s, over near Cherry Creek North. It’s a little more roomy, a little less formal, a little more affordable… but just as wonderful.
Award-winning sommelier Ryan Fletter is the attentive father to these two restaurants, and his devotion to excellence shines in both locations. Chow Morso is perhaps just a little more fun, like a younger sister should be!
The restaurant is intended to offer small plates and classics that aren’t always on the menu at Barolo Grill, such as carbonara and bolognese. We recently went for lunch, and we ordered the Calamari Fritti, two salads, and two piadinas. About those salads: my wife had the Caesar Classico (which she declared delicious) and I had the Insalata di Rucolo. It was a work of art, slightly savory and also a bit sweet, with dried mushrooms, figs, and a crown of fried leeks on top. Because we had already devoured the calamari - it was beyond exceptional! - we were quite full, and so took our piadinas to go. Piadinas are grilled flatbread sandwiches, and we ordered the Prosciutto and the Pollo alla Griglia. Dinner that night was just as delightful as lunch had been, even if the setting was much more familiar. Yes, we had to bus our own dishes!
Chow Morso Osteria’s specialties are obviously best enjoyed in-house, but even as take-out, the food is a delight. I encourage you to visit the restaurant, of course; you'll enjoy the top-notch service and the Italy-in-LoDo ambience almost as much as the exceptional cooking. Hang out with the cool kid sister! You'll be glad you did.