Chrisp Street Market

The Food of London’s East End Is Nearing Extinction | Eater London

"A small market stall in Poplar’s Chrisp Street Market run by third-generation proprietor Lorraine Paul has been selling pease pudding, faggots, and saveloys for over 60 years. The pease pudding is made in a weekly cook by boiling split yellow peas with carrots and herbs, then blended to a consistency that is neither as whole as mushy peas nor as homogenous as hummus — cold it becomes spreadable and stodgy, warmed it turns into a gel-like, amber balm that coats the mouth; it keeps for nine days. Historically the stall drew long queues and multiple daily batches, but sales have dwindled to one batch a week as tastes change and younger customers often shun the “yellow stuff.” The saveloys, still produced to the proprietor’s specifications with a touch of garlic and taut skins, and the faggots — now more like stuffing but studded with meat and fat — are marred by wider industry standardisation and the loss of traditional butchers. The stall is notable for its strong sense of community and regulars, warm banter, and ritualised service, yet faces an uncertain future because of local regeneration plans (including demolition of the car park that supplies much of its trade), rising rents and shop closures; a plate of pease pudding, saveloy, and faggot with a roll (and optional tea) is presented as a grounding, nostalgic meal costing around £3–£3.50." - Jonathan Nunn