David J.
Yelp
The Cittie of York is worth a visit for its interior alone - and, despite the olde worlde interior, all is not what it seems. A Grade II listed building, there has been a pub or drinking establishment on this site since the 15th century. In 1695 it became the Gray's Inn Coffee Shop (coffee shops being the 'in' places of their time) although it continued to sell wine and beer too - it was listed as a coffee house and tavern in 1819.
The site was redeveloped in the 1923-4 by the wine merchants George Henekey & Co., who also owned a chain of pubs. The Tudor interior is therefore a 20th century recreation, but done with great confidence: it actually incorporates elements (such as the fire) from earlier periods, but not the Tudor! Also fake is the name, which dates from 1979, when Sam Smiths took over the Henekey chain. The name evokes a long-vanished pub across the road in Staple Inn. The outside signage, the stained glass in the window overlooking the bar and the copper cartouches all date from this relatively recent refurbishment!
As you enter, the front bar is heavily and darkly panelled and, although unexceptional, quite comfy. The main room is actually behind, and this is built in the form of a large Tudor hall. There is a large counter on the left, above which are huge wine vats, supported on a shelf - a reminder of Henekey's original business, and thought to have still been in use until World War II. Opposite the bar are seven 'carrels', small enclosed seating boots rather like old railway compartments. These provide a more intimate and private drinking area for a small group of friends or couples. The final feature - and perhaps the most interesting - is the stove in the centre, which has three faces, and dates from 1815. It is rare in having an underground flue - the draught pulls the smoke back down and out!
Below all this is the former wine cellar area, now providing more seating.
The beer on my last visit was OK, if unexceptional, (I'm not the greatest fan of Sam Smiths, but at least it is cask-conditioned) and the staff were friendly and reasonably efficient. It does get very busy immediately after work, however, and what puts me off is that some of those City boys - whether lawyers or bankers I know not - can get very loud and brash, and lose all sense of personal space, when they've had a few. It does tend to quieten down a bit once they've moved on