James B.
Google
Dinner at City Grit in Columbia feels part-restaurant, part-social experiment, and part-supper club run by very enthusiastic friends. The space hums with good intentions, a “gratuity-free” philosophy where staff earn full wages and any tips are donated to charity. It’s admirable, if occasionally chaotic, with servers calling everyone “friends” and the service more warm than polished.
Chef-driven and community-minded, City Grit feeds both conscience and when it works, it’s excellent. The jamón anejo, a 600-day Spanish ham with olive oil and Basque peppers, is generous and rich. The boquerones, anchovies with red peppers, lemon, and chips, are fantastic. The white bolognese is a silken tangle of house-made bucatini, deeply savory but far too small for $34. The pan con tomate is the highlight: bright, garlicky perfection on small sourdough with manchego.
Not everything lands. The patatas bravas were a car crash, overcooked, oddly unfried, and missing their red pepper aioli. The orange wine was more interesting than enjoyable, and the mismatched furniture adds to the general sense of well-meaning chaos. Still, City Grit’s heart is huge and in a city of safe bets, it dares to be something braver.