"Start us off with an establishing shot.A polished, white-marble breathing space in the middle of storybook London—the solid-gold city commotion of red buses and black taxis on constant rotation out front, the big green playground of Hyde Park across the road. Park Lane hotels aren’t really about their exteriors, but about the inner worlds they assemble. There’s a flickering fire-and-water feature in the lobby window, and Italian furniture that brings bright pops of color to an otherwise neutral modern palette. This modest high-rise on Park Lane doesn’t reach out and grab you by the lapels, but draws you inward by subtle suggestion.
Give us the backstory on this place.When the Metropolitan opened on Park Lane in 1997, sandwiched between the InterContinental and the Hilton, it was London’s first proper design hotel. Staff were clothed in DKNY; rooms were streamlined and clutter-free; there was Nobu for thrillingly mod Japanese cuts, and a swish, private-members’ cocktail joint called the Met Bar that would soon appear in every gossip column. Its owners were a discreet, Singapore-based power couple, Mr. and Mrs. Ong—the latter known as the Queen of Bond Street—who ran Prada, Bulgari, and Armani stores in London, along with the hideaway Halkin hotel in Belgravia. The Metropolitan was something different, though: a forward-thinking hangout for an era that was christened ‘Cool Britannia’ by Tony Blair. Fast-forward two decades and London’s hotelscape and social geography has changed immeasurably. But the Metropolitan still stands apart on Park Lane, and Christina Ong still casts a beady eye over every detail. All the rooms were refreshed in late 2015. It’s one of several COMO hotels around the world, from Miami and Perth to Bhutan, Thailand, Turks & Caicos and Bali, that all share a similar ethos.
Tell us about the digs: What do they look like? What is it like to stay in one?The bedrooms here are among the most spacious in London—plenty of room to practice yoga, for example: mats are provided, along with yoga instruction on a dedicated TV channel (controlled by a keyboard, which is clunkier than an iPad but intuitive to use). Not a huge amount of personality—bring your own flamboyance—but they’re relaxing and clutter-free, with very little signage and literature, all of which is tucked away in drawers. The lighting system takes a little bit of working out, but is easy enough to operate from the bedside telephone. There’s fretwork inspired by Hyde Park, plenty of walnut and sycamore and yellow chenille on the bedheads and chairs, with thick silk curtains in Burberry colors combined with blinds (operated at the push of a button) ensuring cocoon-like sleeping conditions. A very well-stocked minibar—everything from condoms to Haribo, Champagne to London ale. And every room, apart from the Deluxe City Rooms category, actually has a bath. Take an end room for views over both Mayfair chimney-pots and Park Lane.
What's the word on Wi-Fi?There's no charge, and it's good quality.
How about the F&B?Well, Nobu is only an elevator ride away, and it’s one of Mr. Matsuhisa’s favorites, with views over to Hyde Park and a strong local following—plenty of regulars on first-name terms with the long-serving wait staff, which creates an atmosphere you don’t often find on transient Park Lane. Black cod miso on the menu, of course, and recent additions such as Arctic Char Yuzu Soy Butter—ask the sake sommelier to fix up and talk you through a flight of three rice wines, all made by the Hokusetsu brewery.
But you can experience Nobu from L.A. to Manila, can’t you? For a snapshot of London’s homegrown food scene, head to the hotel’s own restaurant Gridiron grill—residing in the former Met Bar. It’s a supergroup joint, a Traveling Wilburys of flavor, fired up by Richard H. Turner of steak-supremo Hawksmoor, chef Stephen Englefield, and dynamic cocktail duo the Venning brothers. Sadly, there are no views, but you’ll only have eyes for the Hereford rib eye with bone-marrow sauce, perhaps, or a weighty roast turbot with chicken butter, or smaller dishes such as the buttery ash-burnt leek and scampi drizzled with jalapeño tartare. Toast the ghosts of the Met Bar with a fresh take on the classic pineapple martini. The wine list is pretty special, too, simplified with gentle steers to natural wines, unusual and rare vintages; sommelier Merlin Ramos has a refreshing down-to-earth attitude that’s rare in this postcode.
How did you find the service, start to finish?Well-choreographed and helpful; never formal, and many staff have a breezy European sensibility.
Who else is staying here?Middle Eastern families with bright-eyed children in tow; dressed-down Europeans in padded gilets; Londoners enjoying staycations for birthdays and anniversaries, plus the occasional Nobu groupie and spa seeker.
What about the neighborhood? Does the hotel fit in, make itself part of the scene?London’s hotelscape has shifted enormously since 1997—the once wild east has been tamed, and London Bridge and the South Bank areas opened up. But Park Lane is still central to all those classic London hits, from Hyde Park (check out the Serpentine Galleries) to the Changing of the Guard, as well as Mayfair with its small galleries and bespoke shops (try the Dickensian-style Shepherd’s Market on for size). Nearby Victoria (for the Gatwick Express) has undergone a recent boom and now has restaurants worth considering, such as A Wong. The Met has none of the period frills or more grandiose, top-hatted pomp of near neighbors such as The Dorchester, Hilton, and InterContinental.
Is there anything you'd change?The elevators seem a little under-powered at busy times.
Tell us what we missed: any other services or features you'd like to shout out?The Como Shambhala spa draws devotees from all around the globe—there’s a certain irony to this, considering the Met Bar’s legendary tales of excess, but it’s a sure sign of these clean-living times. There are six treatment rooms and an accomplished team of practitioners, whether you need a post-flight facial, pre-natal massage, or post-cancer treatment. They have a reputation for acupuncture and shiatsu, with a roster of visiting experts, each with their own following—Franco Secchi for osteopathy, other names for energy healing and reflexology.
Bottom line: Worth it? Why?Yes, for the spacious rooms, the sense of calm that ever-so gradually envelops you, and for the to-hell-with-abstinence cocktails." - Rick Jordan
