John V.
Yelp
When I first moved to Denver it reminded me of Oz: everything was all shiny and new, full of promise and vigor, a beautiful place no doubt, with a spectacular snow-capped backdrop. Where the sun's radiance is omnipresent, and the inhabitants conceal their individuality behind mirrored shades as they chase their wants, and where their dreams do indeed come true.
I also thought that maybe this was a bit of an illusion; there had to be a little grit behind all those reflective glass clad skyscrapers, where the wide concrete freeways give way to neighborhood streets with timeworn houses based on human scale and a different kind of vitality. Where the pace is less hurried and whose inhabitants occasionally reveal their soul, but most importantly share in their secret places for good, cheap, and thoroughly satisfying food.
I was not wrong. Denver does have grit, you just have to work for it, seek it out a bit, and just ask. You will be rewarded more than you know. The Curtis Park Creamery is a local kind of place and has been for a while. This restaurant is not only a place that is locally owned, it has a funky history, and serves up some mighty tasty and cheap Mexican food.
I am not an authority of this type of food, but I do know what I like and that usually involves some kind of cheese. No problem finding that here. And when that cheese comes encased in smoky poblanos, is deep fried, and then is 'smothered' in an amazing red chile, then you have definitely reached my soul.
I ordered the #17 combo which consisted of two of the aforementioned smothered (smo. on the menu) rellenos and a side of beans and rice that were also both smo., all for only $6.99. Wow.
The sauce had a warming heat which is perfect for a cold Denver day, heck it's great for a hot Denver day. The side of refried beans is not your usual chain version but a slightly soupy rendition and had a depth of flavor which could never be mistaken for anything remotely resembling 'fast casual'. And the rice, again surprisingly flavored with more of that wonderful smo. Mmmm. I think that smo. really means "give me some mo'!"
In addition to the combo plates, there are burritos (all for less than $5, with a smo. bean and cheese, $3.35), enchiladas, menudo (yup!), tacos, etc. Oh, there is also Frito Pie on the menu board. Frito Pie!
The Curtis Park Creamery is strictly a carry out place, you will need to get in line with everyone else, and when it is your turn to place your order you better know what you want from the menu board because this place gets busy. Definitely worth a trip for a quick lunch if you are anywhere near Curtis Park, i.e. 20 miles.
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