Carl F.
Yelp
Concentration Camp.
Circa 1933-1945, KZ-Gedenkstätte Dachau, founded by Heinrich Himmler, acted as the model and training facility for Nazi concentration camps during WWII. It was built to hold 5,000 prisoners but at the time of it's liberation in April of 1945, the camp held over 33,000. It is estimated that 43,000 people died here during that span.
I made two requests for places I wanted to go on my recent multi-country travels through Europe and this camp was one of them and as odd as it sounds (and my travel partner agrees), visiting Dachau was the best, and by far most memorable, part of our entire trip. If you're anywhere in or around Munich, or wavering on coming here, I urge you to visit. It's a must for anyone and truly worth traveling across the world to experience.
I'm not a person who's often or ever 'moved', and I wouldn't say that Dachau 'moved' me or was this pinnacle of an emotional experience... I'm just not that type of person who feels things, but I can see where it could be for some. Coming here is heavy, no doubt, and felt especially so on the grey, freezing November day that we came.
Normally, I don't care for memorials. Not that they aren't deserved, I'm just not particularly interested in the bastardization of tragedies and turning out some mega fountain or light sculpture that has nothing to do with the origination or reason behind the memorial. Dachau was nothing like that.
This is a memorial done exactly as a memorial for something of this magnitude should be be. It was put together by survivors of this very camp. Nothing was pretty. It was never warm. At no point will you feel comfort or at peace. You'll see vast images of tragedy, horror, masochism, torture, death, terror, hell. You'll read bits of information that aren't emotional or sensationalized, just very matter-of-fact, black and white, simple even. Even the survivor accounts (in the special prisoner housing area) read like neutral testimony, emotionless, yet felt more grim because you could sense the numbness that came from living such tremendous horror. I can't remember a point in my life where I learned as much in such a short period of time. My brain became a sponge for every image, word, and cold, empty-but-filling breath.
I advise coming at 9am and spending the entire length of the day (closes at 5pm) to tour the camp, which between the barracks recreation, the new visitors center, the museum, and the KZ grounds is wholly expansive. We gave ourselves from 9:30am - 2:45pm and didn't feel like we had nearly enough time, due in part to their being a LOT of reading. There is a new-ish visitors center just off the camp that has a cafeteria that oddly enough serves some of the best, most affordable, and largest portioned food in all the Munich area. Also recommended, don't fill your post-KZ evening with a ton of plans. Chances are you won't feel like partying or touring the Munich sites much after this. I'd say to leave the remaining evening with time for a meal, a quiet stroll, and then off to bed early. Dachau will definitely drain you, as one would imagine.
Admission is free, but we came early to purchase tickets to the 11am English guided tour, which runs roughly 3 hours (it goes by quickly) and only costs 3-Euros a person. You can spend more and join a tour with a private company, but those will run you at least 20-Euro a head and you can expect your tour group to be large and the information to be the same as what you'd hear from taking the $3 tour offered by visitors center.
Our tour guide was beyond excellent. I would even go as far as to suggest you do the research to make sure you go on a tour that is run by the same guide as we had, Keith Warmack. Keith is an American who's been living in Munich for the past 11 years and giving tours part time at Dachau since the 2006 FIFA World Cup in Germany. Keith is like a mix between the more distinguished silver fox version of Ted Danson and Tim Gunn and I couldn't have loved him more. As weird as it sounds, he wasn't a buzzkill. He gave really useful, factual, information and there were even some dark humorous (but tasteful) undertones during various parts. We learned about more than just the camp and got what was virtually a WWII tour of various historic Munich-area spots and how they related to the war. It was beyond fascinating.
I could literally go on all day about everything I learned at Dachau, but instead I'll leave you with the quote that resonated the most and hope that if in the area, you invest some time into experiencing something every person should see and hopefully learn from.
"First they came for the Communists, and I didn't speak out because I wasn't a Communist.
Then they came for the Socialists, and I didn't speak out because I wasn't a Socialist.
Then they came for the trade unionists, and I didn't speak out because I wasn't a trade unionist.
Then they came for me, and there was no one left to speak for me." ~ Martin Niemölleh