Lyla D.
Yelp
After performing a "surgical strike" pre-Christmas shopping trip at the Westfield Century City Shopping Mall, our stomachs growled for bowls of steaming hot Asian noodle soup and dumplings, AKA street food. I hesitated to suggest Din Tai Fung in the mall because we ate at that Taiwan-based restaurant in Las Vegas last week. However, as I pulled out my handy Yelp app to search for the nearest restaurant serving Taiwanese food outside the shopping mall, "dan modern Chinese" popped up as one of my bookmarks which appeared in Eater LA's November 2024 list of Best Chinese Restaurants in Los Angeles. Although dan modern Chinese is a local chain restaurant with several locations in Los Angeles, its Little Osaka location was the closest to us. In unison, we exclaimed, "Let's Go!"
My brother-in-law jokingly asked me to turn on my "Parking 'Aumakua" as we drove down busy Sawtelle Boulevard when I serendipitously spotted an open metered parking space on Mississippi Avenue and guided my brother-in-law to make a quick left turn to the open space. We walked a few hundred feet around the corner restaurant on Sawtelle Boulevard, Tsujita LA, which was bustling and had a line out the door. We quickly found the dan modern Chinese eatery next door.
After peeking into their glass-enclosed kitchen, we watched several cooks roll out house-made dumpling wrappers and cut fresh noodles before entering their bright woods and modern, furnished dining room. A cheery server escorted us to a table set with eating utensils and menus and brought us glasses of water before giving menu item descriptions. After noticing that dan modern Chinese features housemade dumpling wrappers and noodles, we understood the menu did not feature traditional Sichuan spicy dan dan mian 擔擔麪 with minced pork. However, this restaurant offers both noodle soups and dry-style soups.
We entered the restaurant after peering into the glass-enclosed kitchen, where we watched the cooks rolling our housemade dumpling wrappers and cutting noodles. I watched one cook stir-frying food in a wok before entering the modern furnished dining room and bright wood. At the time, we were the only Asians in the restaurant for at least 15 minutes before the restaurant began filling with other hungry customers.
I spotted my husband's favorite appetizer menu item, Popcorn Chicken ($11.25), which is extra crispy, marinated, and juicy boneless golden fried bite-sized chicken pieces. We usually see this popular Taiwanese street food served with fried basil leaves and seasoned with spicy chili. However, dan modern serves its menu item with a spicy aioli and garnishes of toasted garlic, scallions, and cilantro. Then, our eyes were averted to their Shanghainese soup dumplings or xiaolongbao 小籠包 and handmade dumplings or jiaozi 餃子 with preparation choices of steamed (zhēngjiǎo), pan-fried (jiānjiǎo), or boiled (shuǐjiǎo and served in pool of chili oil). We ordered the pork and shrimp filled dumplings prepared by pan-frying, also known as pot stickers, and boiled served with chili oil.
Of course, because we also came here for noodles, we ordered the short rib dan mein made with Shanghainese thick housemade wheat flour noodles or cumian 粗麵 which are similar to Japanese udon. The thick garlicky sweet soy sauce-based sauce coated the noodles and there were plentiful amounts of shiitake mushrooms, snow pea leaves. The beef short rib meat was fork-tender and also generously portioned in this noodle dish.
We completed our meal with a bowl of beef oxtail noodle soup. The beef was melt-in-your mouth tender and its dark thin broth had essences of star anise or five-spice powder. The soup noodles were thinner and almost spaghetti-like. The bowl size was deceiving because we thought we wouldn't have enough to share among the three of us but we were wrong! We also enjoyed the tender-cooked vegetable garnishes and slightly spicy chopped preserved vegetable that was served on the side. Our only knock against this dish was we felt the soup could have been served more heat hot. $17.25
We'd gladly return to dan modern Chinese for their chewy noodles and medium textured dumpling wrappers. The Shanghainese, Taiwanese, and Cantonese flavors and textures were authentic but we did detect slight Westernized and other Asian twists