Arthur N.
Yelp
The cavernous dining space is something of an echo chamber; caught between a high ceiling, hardwood floors, and bustling bar scene, the decibel level, especially when the joint is jumping - which seems to be most of the time - is downright daunting. Depending upon your table location, carrying on a civilized conversation without shouting may very well constitute a major challenge.
The general pandemonium notwithstanding, however, the cuisine continues to be first-rate on all counts. During a recent visit, the six diners in our party (three couples) were completely satisfied with the gastronomic goings-on. The majority chose variations on the carnivorous theme: 8-Ounce Center-Cut Filet Mignon, 8-Ounce 55 Day Prime Aged Strip Steak, etc. Though enjoyed during a previous visit, the incomparable Sautéed Veal Tenderloin (pictured), also deserves mention. It remains, without doubt, one of the best veal presentations it has been my pleasure to ingest this side of the Atlantic. The veal was extraordinarily tender, with oyster mushrooms, cipollini onions, and roasted fingerling potatoes putting in superb supporting performances... But, ultimately, it was a rich and savory Marsala wine sauce that succeeded in propelling this dish into orbit. Highly recommended.
On this occasion, however, my dining partner and I decided to take the seafood route, both opting for the Atlantic Salmon (pictured). It arrived at table flesh side up on a seabed of sautéed baby spinach surrounded by a pool of warm eggplant caponata. The filet was attractively seared while its interior remained delightfully moist. This entrée had been ordered on one of my previous visits, and it remains a personal fave. Davio's has managed to inject a healthy dose of pizzazz into an all-too-pedestrian piscatorial menu fixture.
Our group's appetizer choices ranged from a shared Chopped Romaine Salad to San Marzano Tomato Soup with goat cheese chive crostini to Oysters Rockefeller. Once again, though, my dining partner and I took a different route, sharing a starter to which we have become thoroughly addicted: the Crispy Chicken Livers (pictured). A bath in the deep fryer leaves them irresistibly crispy yet with a moist & succulent interior. They are then tossed with roasted pine nuts in an enticing port wine balsamic glaze and crowned with deep fried spinach leaves. They may not look like much, but, trust me, they are an incredible feast for the palate.
That's the good news... Now for the bad. Dining at Davio's is a downright outrageously expensive proposition. I won't bore you with facts & figures, as they are readily available on the restaurant's website. And what goes for food is true of alcoholic libations as well. Dining here is a fiscal tsunami in the making.
And so the question remains: Does the quality of the food, service, and ambience justify the hefty prices? That, of course, depends upon your point of view... and the state of your wallet. However, this conversation is NOT about Jean-Georges, or Le Bernardin, or the French Laundry, or La Tour d'Argent, or some other legendary bastion of ethereal gastronomy. No, this is about Davio's Northern Italian Steakhouse in beautiful downtown King of Prussia, Pennsylvania.
So... is it worth it??? Is it worth paying elevated fine dining prices to chow down on chain steakhouse fare - as good as it may or may not be - in an atmosphere saturated with near-lethal decibel levels? IS IT...? Not to me... But it's your call.