Jay K.
Yelp
My first impression of "Death by Tequila" was that it really does not aspire to be a restaurant for adult diners, but rather a trendy hook-up bar. Owned by a married couple, one of whom is a real-estate investment banking mogul, the other a former P.R. manager for Playboy, "Death by Tequila" claims to deliver "Modern Baja Cuisine." As I skimmed through its menu of such Mexican delights as 'quinoa with pomegranate seeds,' 'smoked salmon on "artisanal" toast,' and 'hot wings,' I braced myself for the worst.
I won't lie to you, the tacos here are alright for the most part, but they're pricey and they lack soul. The best tacos I've eaten in my life have something elemental about them, tasting like they came from somebody's home, their meats straight off of someone's backyard grill. Great tacos taste like they are great by accident. Conversely, the tacos that I get at places like Death by Tequila taste like they have been formulaically engineered by a culinary school grad to bomb the mouth with flavor as fast as possible, and then be forgotten almost as quickly.
Some of it could be laziness. For example, Death by Tequila uses small corn tortillas from La Fe in San Marcos. I sometimes buy these same tortillas for home-use from Sprouts and Whole Foods. They're pretty good, but it is inexplicable that a place like this isn't making their own tortillas. Hell, for what they're charging, they should even be nixtamalizing their own corn, then grinding their own masa. But I digress.
The "Carnitas Taco" is the worst of the group. Rather than what you and I would consider to be carnitas, it is instead Duroc pork braised until flaccid in a very sweet pineapple-chipotle salsa. Whatever this is, it bears absolutely zero resemblance to anything that anyone would prepare in a cazo, and my tongue registered it as mediocre. The "Barbacoa Taco" is made with braised beef cheeks, and is the "spiciest" of the tacos I tried here. It is cinnamon-y and sweet, and I can appreciate what they tried to do, even if also an average-ish taco for San Diego County. Better are the "Market Fish Tacos" and the "Spicy Mole Tacos," the latter being a decent piquant potato taco, and the former featuring a lightly-seasoned chunk of mild opah garnished with dill. Their riff on the Fish Taco is both different and defiant but, again, about on par with others in San Diego.
In response to legitimate complaints from other Yelpers about food quality and portion size, Death by Tequila's social media ambassador has retorted that the food here is "locally-sourced, organic when possible, fresh-squeezed, handmade and 'farm-to-table.'" That's all well and good, but you're completely missing the point, guys. If your food does not taste phenomenal at the prices you're charging, who cares about the other stuff.
To another Yelper, Death by Tequila's response was that their "menu is created tapas-style and meant for sharing, which is why the portions may not be [what] guests are accustomed to." "Guests" like me are accustomed to getting appropriate value for what I pay for. That means that if I must pay premium North County restaurant prices for a taco, it better be a) damn tasty, b) damn big, and c) preferably both.
I understand that food isn't the true priority here, and perhaps this review is a wee unfair because I'm reviewing a cocktail bar meant for an early-to-mid-20s crowd as if it were a serious restaurant for grown-ups. But if you want to P.R. your way into Troy Johnson's "Eat This" list, and convince San Diego Magazine to name you the "Best New Restaurant," you're painting a target on your back: with great hype should come great scrutiny.
Food/Décor/Service: 3.8/4.2/4.1
Taco Score: Market Fish Taco (80/100), Black Mole Taco (80/100), Barbacoa Taco (75/100), Carnitas Taco (65/100)
What to Order: Market Fish Taco, Los Muertos Cocktail