Graham Tranter
Google
Our second stop in Antarctica is on Deception Island, an ACTIVE VOLCANO, with a flooded caldera. The island is 12km x 12km, the inner Caldera is 9km x 6km. Access to the harbor is through a 200m wide entrance known as Neptune’s Bellows, so named for the winds that howl through it. There is a rock in the middle just under the water and the area to one side is foul so the ship just has 100m with which to navigate.
Our landing spot is Whalers Bay, a small harbor immediately to the northeast after passing through Neptune’s Bellows. The Bay includes a semi-circular, gently sloping ash beach, approximately 2km in length. Key features are a historic Site and Monument No. 71, including a) the remains of the Norwegian Hektor Whaling Station (1912-1931), b) the site of the Whaler’s Cemetery and other whaling remains along the beach, c) the abandoned British ‘Base B’ (1944-1969), d) Neptune’s Window (A collapse of Cathedral Crags on the south-eastern side of Whalers Bay), and e) Ronald Hill. Both the base and the station were destroyed by a mudslide during an eruption that lasted from 1967-1969.
Our landing has a good walking opportunity, up to Neptune’s Bellows or along to the old base airstrip. There is the polar plunge for anyone that wants it as the waters are as warm as they will be likely to get due to Kroner Lake, a geo-thermally heated lagoon. We have a mix of snow flurries and the scenery changes dramatically from black and white to colorful depending on how the clouds break and the direction one is facing when the sun shows. There are a lot of muted to bright browns here, as a result of the iron from the eruptions. As I walked up to Neptune’s Window, the ground looked very Mars like with a patch of rusty brown ground. In Juxtaposition, there is an out of bounds growth of greenery/moss where the fur seals seem to be hanging out. After the landing we cruise the inner caldera and check out a few eruption craters before heading back out of Neptune’s Bellows.