Carlos Rangel
Google
After a peaceful rest at Square du Vert-Galant, my wife and I continued our walk towards the Palais Royal, a landmark deeply intertwined with French history. Crossing Pont Neuf, we admired the Seine flowing beneath us, with the timeless Parisian skyline framing our path. As we made our way through the historic streets, we reached Place Colette, a lively square near the Comédie-Française, one of the oldest active theatres in the world, founded in 1680. Here, the modern Kiosque des Noctambules metro entrance, with its colourful glass spheres, contrasted sharply with the classical surroundings, offering a striking visual mix of past and present.
Stepping into the Palais Royal, we found ourselves in a place once at the heart of political and cultural life in France. Originally built in 1639 as Cardinal Richelieu’s residence, it later became the royal home of Louis XIV before he moved to Versailles. In the 18th century, its arcades were transformed into lively shopping galleries, filled with cafés, bookshops, and theatres, making it a hub for intellectuals and revolutionaries alike.
The first striking sight was the Colonnes de Buren (Les Deux Plateaux), a bold modern art installation of black-and-white striped columns by Daniel Buren, which has sparked both admiration and controversy since its unveiling in 1986. The area was bustling with visitors capturing creative photos, adding to the dynamic atmosphere that blends contemporary art with historical grandeur.
Continuing into the courtyard, we reached the Fontaines Sphérades, a stunning arrangement of polished steel spheres resting on water, designed by Pol Bury. Their reflective surfaces captured the surrounding architecture, light, and movement, creating a hypnotic effect. This area was much quieter, allowing us a moment to fully appreciate the artistic harmony between modern design and classical elegance.
Moving further inside, we entered the Palais Royal Gardens, a perfectly manicured space that once served as the private retreat of French nobility. The symmetrical hedges, grand fountains, and tree-lined paths provided a serene escape from the city’s energy. Unlike the bustling Colonnes de Buren, the gardens were noticeably calmer, and after a short wait, we managed to secure a bench—just before a group of girls had the same idea. It was the perfect place to relax and absorb the refined beauty of our surroundings.
Walking through the gardens, it was easy to imagine the atmosphere of 18th-century Paris, when the Galeries du Palais-Royal housed the city’s most fashionable boutiques, and figures like Danton and Camille Desmoulins gave revolutionary speeches under its arcades. Even today, remnants of that past remain, with the covered walkways still hosting small shops, art galleries, and cafés.
The Palais Royal is a unique blend of history, art, and nature, offering visitors a glimpse into the grandeur of France’s royal past, the creativity of its artists, and the tranquillity of its hidden gardens. Whether you visit to admire its architecture, engage with contemporary art, or simply find a quiet spot in the heart of Paris, it is a place that effortlessly bridges centuries of history with modern-day Parisian charm.