Dona Mariquita - Cozinha Patrimonial da Bahia
Restaurant · Salvador ·
Heritage cuisine reviving Afro-Brazilian traditions, seafood
Heritage cuisine reviving Afro-Brazilian traditions, seafood
"At this homey restaurant in the Rio Vermelho neighborhood, chef Leila Carreiro serves what she calls “heritage cuisine.” For a decade she has focused on regional dishes, including those typically served as street food in the markets of Bahia and the recipes that locals cherish most, many of them paying homage to African origins. You’ll find peguari (fighting conch), a summertime classic here served with cashew vinaigrette, as well as hauçá rice (coconut and beef rice fried in palm oil with dried shrimp)." - Rafael Tonon
"Opened in Salvador in 2006 and helmed by chef Leila Carreiro, this restaurant is devoted to reviving centuries-old Bahian dishes rooted in African arrival cooking and the influence of Candomblé. Menu highlights include ipeté (the local bobó de camarão presented in its traditional form, with a discussion of how yams gave way to cassava over time), a poqueca variant served wrapped in banana leaf rather than in a stew pot, and historically significant preparations such as acaçá de leite (ground white corn with coconut milk made in honor of Oxalá). Carreiro researches archival sources and the work of Manuel Querino to reproduce recipes as African arrivals might have cooked them, and she removed items like latipá from the menu when diners did not recognize them—reflecting a balance between faithful preservation and contemporary reception. The restaurant frames its cooking as cultural recovery and education, aiming to keep Afro-Brazilian culinary traditions alive while responsibly popularizing terreiro foodways." - Rafael Tonon
Bené V.
Leyah E.
EM
Otto C.
Diva S.
Henry S.
K.N H.
TZAR T.
