Marianne M.
Yelp
If I could give 6 stars, I would!
How is DRIFT not already a James Beard award winner or the recipient of a Michelin star (or two or three)? Probably because it's relatively new and in Rehoboth Beach, Delaware. The one thing I'm going to regret, is that once this eatery is on the radar of locals and vacationers, it will inevitably take months to get reservations. It's a fairly small space - 27 seats in the dinning room and another 20 or so in the back outdoor courtyard. And a few seats around the cosy bar up front. But I think high quality is more consistently ensured in smaller spaces.
And high quality only begins to sum up the incredible dishes at DRIFT. The chef, Tom Wiswell seems to be a hybrid of a highly trained and precise classical French chef and a beloved Chesapeake granny who produces the kind of comfort food that is the stuff of deep seated culinary memories. His plates are meticulously presented and each have a distinct and creative combination of vibrant and balanced flavors. Too often a restaurant will do a few things well and then fall back on sameness and lack of imagination with too much of the remaining menu. Not so here. Every plate is highly creative, has an individual flavor profile, is well thought out and is sourced from the very best purveyors. And there's no inkling of preciousness in this food - no over embellished, unnecessary gimmicks. Just a plethora of flavor.
We started out with several shared small plates - a tuna tartare flavored with ginger, lime, sesame and avocado; Maryland Blue Crab hush puppies with crab aioli, pickled chili and tomato jam; and our third and most mesmerizing, Maine Lobster French Toast with house made brioche, crème fraiche, leeks, tarragon, and a lemon beurre monté that ties it all together. To say this dish was over-the-top orga$mically delicious is not hyperbole here. (YES! YES! YES! ....I'll have what she's having).
I also had the Chesterfield Heirloom Greens salad, because I insist on eating my vegetables at every meal! And again no ordinary local greens salad. The salad sits on top of a perfectly whipped ricotta base and includes mixed greens, fennel, sugar snap peas, spiced pistachios and shaved Comte, dressed lightly in a buttermilk vinaigrette. I scraped every bit of that ricotta off my plate once I consumed the salad in record time.
Onto the large plates. My husband Howard and I split the Grilled Long Island Golden Tilefish and our friends split the Virginia Fluke Schnitzel. Both were flavorful and very different from one another. I couldn't get enough of the crab and vegetable stew (with tomato, peas, onions, lemon and okra) that the superbly grilled Tilefish was presented over. Our friend's Fluke Schnitzel was unlike any pan fried fish I've had - moist fish with a delectable light crust over a browned butter sauce, potatoes with lemon and dill, pea tendrils, capers and (cucumber scented) borage. The layering and depth of flavor in these entrees was robust, complex and distinct. And, again we were mining our plates for every bit of deliciousness left on the bottom. The entrees were easily large enough to split, which is something we all appreciated.
Of course we had to try dessert even though we were totally satisfied. We chose a Basque Burnt Cheesecake to share between the 4 of us, and it did not disappoint. The perfectly charred crust over a creamy cheesecake filling accompanied by Meyer lemon curd and raspberries was another master class in balanced flavors.
The bar deserves equal time as well. Bartender Ben Winiarczyk is a drink magician worthy of Tom Wiswell's dishes. I had a wonderful French rose from the well curated wine list, but wish I tried one of their inventive cocktails. Our friend had the Grey Goose martini with olive brine foam, and it was beautiful to look at and perfectly mixed. I'll have to try the Que Sera Sera or Ruby Soho when I return. I would also be remiss to not mention the raw bar offerings, including the seafood towers, which looked magnificent as they passed our table. Maybe next time.
So James Beard folks, are you paying attention? Get your collective behinds over to DRIFT and make sure Chef Wiswell and the rest of the wonderful staff get their due. I hope Tom Wiswell puts out a cookbook at some point, because his methods and ingredient combinations are well worth memorializing. I also hope months from now, I can still get my foot in the door once the word is out.
Marianne Matheny-Katz (aka M2K)