Dennis M.
Yelp
This is one of the very few wineries in the Russian River Valley that has a wine cave. It is one of the few that the entire production (from receipt of grapes through finished wine) is all done within the cave.
It is just past the Lynmar Estate Winery, and tucked behind (and underneath) a hill.
First time I went here I came with my wine buddy and we were very enthused about visiting but didn't check ahead to if it was open to the public or by appointment only. (oops!) We get there and hear some nice soft rock and acoustic jazz coming from behind the large metal doors of the cave. We walk in and follow the echoing music past chambers of tanks and equipment. Just about then we figure we probably shouldn't be in there looking for someone we turn to leave. Then we were spotted by the winemaker, a nice looking young man, who greeted us and welcomed us to the winery. He was ecstatic to show us around and gave us a wonderful tour of his wine cave and his entire operation. He is a one man show and very proud of his operation, with good reason. The winemaker is none other than Ryan Kunde (yes, of the famous Kunde wine family.) I was impressed to see a young vintner in the business. From my experience and travels it is a rarity to find someone in their 20s making wine, let alone really good stuff.
The winery is partnership between the Dougherty and Kunde families and is named for the members of the partnership - D (Dale Dougherty) R (Ryan Kunde) N (Nancy Dougherty) and K (Katie Kunde). I vaguely recall that this partnership is him, his in-laws and his wife. I am a huge fan of family businesses.
The first time was actually very fun, being unannounced and kind of off the cuff. He took us through all his wines in between working tanks and his daily routine.
He has a Pinot Gris - referred to as the Orange wine - he produces in the presse method (letting the grapes sit and then pressing to the desired color rather than blending or bleeding.) The thing that is unique about the wine is the color - orange, peachy. The viscosity is heavy, oily, yet savory with a finish of dried stone fruit. I was intrigued and wanted to try more.
I liked the Chardonnay - it was very good for RRV. Flavor notes I remember, lemon creme brulee came to mind.
He had two Pinot Noirs - both RRV - and I was impressed. Both of these wines were very complex and very good representatives of the AVA.
I returned 6 months later with my wife, as part of the Pinot Classic event. I was very happy to see Ryan and his family participating in the event. When he saw me he recognized me and he knew I was the Vino Brotha from our last meeting.
Since it has been a while I realized that he had a few new releases. Besides the wines already mentioned he released a Rose and a 2012 Viognier Katie's Corner (one block in Saralee's Vineyard) RRV. I am a huge fan of Viognier, so I was excited. I'm going to tell you about the rose first. The rose was produced in the Saignee method and was crisp, with strawberries and light pomegranate flavors. It had a slight buttery finish, as it was barrel aged.
Now to my all time favorite white, Rhone, varietal - Viognier. Beautiful orange blossom floral nose. Crisp peaches, tropical fruit, nice minerality with some white pepper to the finish. Something that is unique of Viognier is that is is one of the most tannic white wines. (it is also known as the red wine of white wines, btw.) Definitely on my list as one of the top 10 Viogniers I've had to date.
If you are out wine exploring in Russian River Valley you might want to make this a stop on your travels. Call ahead and get an appointment so Ryan can show you his unique operation and you can sample his great wines. One note, don't be shy about picking up a bottle of DRNK at local grocery stores, either. Really is good wine.
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