Patrick B.
Google
I've been climbing at this gym since the day it opened, but unfortunately I've been suggested to leave a less than stellar review by some staff members, as I've brought my concerns to staff and no changes have been made.
The biggest issue is that the setting quality at the gym has fallen below an acceptable standard for a marquee gym like Dyno Detroit. The majority of the setting team are amateur setters who exclusively boulder, and this shows in the lead route setting.
Clipping positions have been awkward or difficult, movement has focused more on physical difficulty rather than creative movement, and the grading system is less accurate than ever.
Members of the setting team told me that they were switching to the minus/plus system in an effort to make grades more consistent. Not only does this ignore the fact that less grades inherently leads to less consistency, but routes are still regularly up or down graded. I highly doubt that the setting team is forerunning routes on lead at all.
The gym has been without a head setter for months, and the last professional setter left the team years ago. Climbing routes are the main product of a climbing gym and the quality of Dyno's routes has been neglected.
It is high time that Dyno recruit and hire a professional head route setter to lead this team.
My partners and I have also been annoyed by the evenings of listening to two hours of heavy metal and rock music while climbing. Every taste is valid, but playing the same narrow genres of music for hours on end gets aggravating after a while. I know this issue is constantly brought to staff attention, yet it persists. I'm not asking for a ban on metal music, but maybe limited to a couple songs every hour or so.
This gym is a very important place to me, but I don't believe that the quality of the route setting can be ignored any longer.