Arthur N.
Yelp
As you enter, the diminutive bar beckons. There's a nice selection of wines by the glass, as well as several intriguing cocktails. The adjoining dining area isn't terribly large, but the tables are quite comfortable and well-spaced. You're just far enough from your neighbors to carry on a discreet conversation, but just close enough to savor a bit of that bustling bistro bonhomie. The service, in true bistro fashion, is friendly, exceedingly knowledgeable and, even on the busiest of evenings as smooth as a Japanese railroad.
The food, I would hasten to add, is as agreeably cozy as the ambience. Like the atmosphere, it's charmingly sophisticated without being the least bit stuffy... And Julia Child's maxim, inscribed above the semi-open kitchen, tells it all: "Cooking is like love, it should be entered into with abandon or not at all."
To start things off, the Mushroom & Chorizo Tart is nothing sort of extraordinary. Wild mushroom ragù is companioned by spicy hits of chorizo sausage and baked in a perfectly prepared crust. The pièce de resistance, however, is the incomparable gastrique, a reduction of vinegar and sugar that can be infused with a variety of culinary options. In this case, the fortuitous ingredient of choice is sherry. It is designed to bring out the assertive flavors of a particular dish and look good while doing it. An addictive treat for both eye and palate.
Equally recommended is a recently sampled daily special: the Chicken Corn & Avocado Fritter. You can always count on the Eclipse kitchen to come up with something uniquely distinctive; and the fritter most assuredly fills the bill. The batter is just the right consistency. Then, of course, there's that incredible poblano/potato cream sauce... rich, but not at all heavy or cloying... beautifully & subtly seasoned... and velvety smooth on the palate. Seldom have I sampled a dish so utterly beguiling. Kudos to the kitchen. A must try.
The restaurant's salads also make excellent starters. The Caesar is quite good, though not terribly exciting. I much prefer the Bibb Lettuce spruced up with grape tomatoes pine nuts, shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano, and splash of dynamite preserved orange vinaigrette.
My nod, however, goes to the Wedge Salad. This is a menu item that has recently suffered from a good deal of "ubiquitous consumption" of late. Be that as it may, Eclipse's rendition succeeds admirably where others often fail. Not only is the iceberg pristinely fresh, as you would expect, but the other accoutrements - namely the tomatoes, lardons, and creamy Stilton dressing - are more than generously applied. The latter is particularly important, as, in many eateries, you usually run out of dressing long before you run out of Wedge. No such worries here however.
As you move on to the entrées, possibilities abound - all gently tweaked by the kitchen's captivating caresses. The Pan-Seared Scallops, for example, are pillowed on mushroom risotto, aided and abetted by an intriguing chorizo relish, shot of sherry gastrique, and splash of truffle oil. The Bistro Catch (fish of the chef's choosing) is presented on an island of saffron dirty rice accompanied by roasted broccoli and a zippy sauce etouffée. And speaking of matters piscatorial, nothing quite beats the extraordinary Seared Ahi Tuna. Succulently rare, it arrives at table on an island of vegetable ragout surrounded by a rich sea of smoked butternut squash purée. The crowning touch...? A stylish splash of tangy balsamic glaze. Tuna is a rather robust denizen of the deep, and the kitchen's chosen accompaniments prove to be excitingly complementary in their strong supporting roles.
Meatier matters are ably represented by the likes of a hefty Black Angus New York Strip, Pan Seared Venison Loin, European Chicken Breast, and Sherry Braised Pork Shank. But if there is one entrée that is an absolute must, it is the kitchen's incomparable rendition of Pappardelle Bolognese. Its consistency is neither too dry nor too soupy, its flavors intense without being over the top, and its seasonings - including a sublime hint of tarragon - are exhilarating without being intrusive.
Desserts carry on the kitchen's good work. Possibilities include a number of old favorites like Molten Chocolate Cake and S'mores Bread Pudding, as well as a top-notch Chocolate Truffle Gelato. But the table - and personal - favorite proved to be the incomparably delicious Lemon Tart Brûlée, an innovate takeoff on the traditional Crème Brûlée. The perfect conclusion to a most satisfying evening.
Highly recommended on all counts, Eclipse Bistro is surely worth a journey... Well, a short road trip at the very least.
