Susan K.
Yelp
ORIGIN:
This location marks Ekiben's third storefront site, the first opening in 2016 after years of success selling from a hot dog cart. Ekiben was founded by three recent University of Maryland - Baltimore graduates, two of whom, Steve Chu and Ephrem Abebe, continue to strategically navigate its growth.
CONCEPT:
Ekiben is the Japanese word for lunch box. Steve Chu, who was raised by Taiwanese immigrants/restaurant entrepreneurs, saw opportunity for an Asian take on established fast quality food restaurants, such as Chipotle. Taiwanese cuisine is by nature a fusion of many Asian culinary traditions. Ekiben brings this tradition to Baltimore.
ACCOLADES:
Chu has shared that his father was initially disappointed that he didn't pursue a career associated with his university program of study, but his strategic accumulation of culinary and restaurant business knowledge through apprenticeship has resulted in the delight of many. Ekiben has received recognition through not only from customers, but also food writers (e.g. Travel & Leisure, Eater, Vogue) and award programs (e.g. 2023 James Beard Foundation Best Chef in Mid-Atlantic Semi-Finalist, Yelp Top 100 Restaurants, Yelp Top State Sandwich).
It was the 2022 Yelp best state sandwich recognition that drew me to visit Ekiben in the residential area of Fell's Point. I experienced the acclaimed Neighborhood Bird sandwich, as well as a side of Tempura Broccoli -- a combination that had been showcased during a recent Baltimore-YES event at the new location. (Thanks Anna!)
LOCATION:
Like the two previously established locations, the Fell's Point branch is mainly designed to support pick up and go in a residential area. However, there are a few counter stools inside, as well as two tables outside. A wall is decorated with community - contributed art and photos -- something for customers to enjoy as they wait to place their orders. A water cooler and cups are positioned for customers' use.
SERVICE:
Orders are placed online or at the counter. Seating is so limited that prepared orders are brought to you on a tray with no need for number signs. Service was very helpful and super friendly. Phoenix, who took my order, spoke enthusiastically about the dishes and beverages, provoking me to try the one of the house-made drinks. I sat outside, and after delivering my tray Phoenix told me to knock on the glass window if I needed anything else!
EXPERIENCE:
The Neighborhood Bird sandwich is composed of Taiwanese-style fried chicken thigh topped with a variety of fragrant chopped herbs, crisp pickle slices, and drizzled with Sambal seasoned mayonnaise. This is encased in a pillowy steamed bun that is based on Chu's family recipe. The colors are vibrant, as are the flavor and texture contrasts. For example, curry is added to the chicken coating, allowing not only an extra kick of flavor, but a warm yellow hue to the crust. The Tempura Broccoli is very lightly battered, allowing slight crunch and an attractive veil of tempura crust, while positioning the vegetal flavor at the forefront. This dish is topped with chopped aromatic herbs and red onion, and seasoned with vinegar. (Phoenix reported that it is vinegar from pickle jar). Per recommendation, I ordered the house-made "Yuzuade" to accompany the meal, which, as promised was refreshing in the hot, humid summer afternoon.
This combination was perfect, and satisfying in so many ways. Despite the plethora of great dining options in Baltimore, I returned the next day to pick up lunch and a meal for the five hour train ride home. If this isn't enough of a testament to my experience, I shamelessly spent $20 round trip for an Uber ride due to periodic thunderstorms and little time and energy to try navigate the Baltimore public transportation system! I immediately enjoyed the Original sandwich, which is composed of Thai chicken meatballs topped with herbs, slaw, and crisp julienned "aromatics" (?), and drizzled with coconut black pepper sauce. For the train ride back it was suggested I choose a "tackle box", a lunch box of sorts, because the texture of the components will be better preserved. This allowed me to enjoy the Neighborhood Chicken again, this time topped on a bed of rice with pickled vegetables on the side.
TIPS:
The Neighborhood Chicken can be seasoned with spicy or mild sauces. I would describe the spicy sauce as "New England spicy", but if unsure I suggest requesting containers of each type in the side.
As with any fried or steamed food it is best to eat soon after it has been prepared to experience the textures. If you don't plan on eating soon, a "tackle box" option with sauces on the side is recommended.
If you anticipate only being able to visit once, I recommend the combination I chose on my first visit.
All locations are closed between 3:30-4:30 PM and Sundays.