Mark T.
Yelp
Ahoy there mateys! I'm about to raise your mizzens and shiver your timbers by telling you about a hotspot in town for Mexican sushi. Oh, you didn't know that existed eh? Well then, I guess this is as good a time as any to regale you with the joys of El Coco Pirata.
No really, you didn't mishear me just now. Northwestern Mexican states like Sinaloa and Sonora have enjoyed their own twist on sushi preparations for ages. As you may have surmised, these are a bit different from the more "typical" sushi you may be familiar with. The rolls tend to have the seaweed on the inside, in the style commonly labeled Uramaki ("inside-out") in Japanese. Accompaniments may include mouthwatering crab or carrot salad, whole yellow Güero peppers, or a citrusy soy sauce which may remind you of Ponzu from Japan (or indeed, Finadene from Guam), rather than pink ginger or wasabi. And the roll (yes, rolls are the most popular style) ingredients themselves are bold, bracing, and brassy, and often include grilled meats, fruit, and generous lashings of "el Filadelfia" - yep, you guessed it, I mean cream cheese - before a generous dunk (sssssss!) in the deep-fryer.
Well, now that I've filled you in, here are some of the roll delights you can expect to find at The Pirate Coconut on Alameda/Irving. I myself love the 3 Quesos packed with chicken and bacon (besides the cheeses of course) but for a meal fit for a Vaquero you really can't go wrong with the Arrachera and its juicy flank steak either. The Mixto Tropical is stuffed with kiwi, mango, strawberry and shrimp, then finished with zippy raspberry vinegar and a splash of eel sauce, while the Almendrado gives you surimi and avocado liberally sprinkled with chopped almonds. Don't forget a little sauce from the tableside Salsa Sinaloa range to really perk things up - but yes, these can be "muy caliente" so take care. There are non-sushi items at El Coco too, like a whole seafood-stuffed pineapple and the very Sinaloan pork-and-egg fryup called Chilorio con Huevo. But I'm betting your first roll won't be your last.