The Jedi Foodi E.
Yelp
This is not a review. It's a love letter. The great Casey Stengel once said, "There comes a time in every man's life, and I've had plenty of them." What a marvelous statement that is. This is true with me. I have been very lucky to have had many great experiences..been raised in a great family, received an excellent education, and learned to appreciate the finer things in life as well as the simple. Among the finer is the adoration of haute cuisine. A year ago, I met someone very special from Germany. Her name is JoAnn. A long distance relationship is a gamble at best. But when feelings are genuine, it makes the odds of success better. Last week, I embarked on a trip to visit her for the first time in her hometown of Nürnberg, nestled in the deepest part of Franconia/Bavaria. This quaint city is best known for its Christmas Market, one of the largest in the country, for its modern City Center and culture, its magnificent medieval cathedrals, and signature bratwurst which I enjoyed very much. Any journey outside of NYC will always motivate me to find the best restaurant at my destination. After weeks of research, JoAnn and I decided to make our special Saturday night out at Essigbrätlein. Built in 1550 and reminiscent of a traditional Gasthaus tavern, Essigbrätlein is situated on a quiet cobblestoned nook in the Sebald Castle Quarter, just north of the Pegnitz River. Known as a Gewurzkuche or "spice kitchen" in German, Essigbrätlein's Executive Chef and owner Andree Köthe earned his first Michelin star in 1999 and a second in 2004 and proves that Nuremberg still lives up to its historical reputation as a stronghold for spices. Köthe was the first German chef to introduce the New Naturals School, an offshoot of the farm-to-table movement so widely present here in the United States. The New Naturals emphasize a greater focus on herbs, spices, fruits, and vegetables. Israeli cookbook author Ruth Sirkis cites that Andree Köthe "is a master of herbs and spices. He talks about them with admiration and love. He likes them fresh and dried, whole or crushed, sharp or delicate. He talks about the great differences in the tastes, colors and textures between raw, dried and cooked ingredients. Chef Köthe believes that in each dogma of this cooking process, the food will begin to take on new characteristics. The colors of foods give him the ideas and then inspires him to prepare plates full of creativity and imagination. He loves herbs and spices; and pays special attention to their natural layered combinations with fruits, vegetables, meats and fish." JoAnn and I arrived Essigbrätlein at 7pm for its only nightly seating. Beside the front door is a bell hung from a pulley that allows you to signal the staff inside. The small and intimate dining room only seats about 20-25 guests. We were the first to arrive, but within a half hour, the house was full. Lined with dark wooden panels and crowned glass windows, it was originally a meeting place for wine merchants and now plays host to discerning foodies. We chose the 109€ six course tasting menu. One also has the option to go a la carte. The wine list is vast and impressive; chock full of the expected Rieslings, Grüner Veltliners, and Gewürztraminers and hundreds of others from around the world ranging in price from 40€ all the way into the four figures. A basket of artisinal grain bread with luscious pea butter preceded an interesting parade of amuses. The first amuse was a sweet and playful Pumpkin Cream filled Tuile coated with Sesame Seeds. Next, came a savory Bread Nugget with shaved Pepper Egg Yolk wrapped in a grape leave. The last starter was a fantastic wire suspended Morel coated with an addictive Almond Paste and Licorice nub. From the wine menu, we ordered a crisp local Riesling (59€), which was fastidiously poured sparingly to the pace of our evening. The opening course of the main tasting menu was an astounding sextet of Red Beets, Cherry Blossom Tomatoes, Horseradish and Sweet Woodruff. This was followed by a vibrant Lake Trout in a pool of Fresh Peas and Clover. Mini napoleons of Celery Root, Apples and Rocket Lettuce were some of the best bites in recent memory. The service is superb and despite my initial worries about the language barrier, the staff was completely able to explain in English what we were eating and drinking. The next fish course was divine; Arctic Char topped with Picked Rhubarb perched atop a decadent Potato Gratin. JoAnn and I opted for an aromatic and full-bodied Sonoma County Syrah with notes of red currant, pepper, dark chocolate and whiskey to pair with our absolutely exquisite Lamb with Sautéed White Onions and Mustard Seed. Once the desserts arrived, the dining room was in an oxymoronic quiet fervor with smiles abound everywhere. A molten Citrus Cake quenched into a velvet Vanilla Sorbet floating in a fiendish Watercress Jus. Our rapture concluded with a mosaic of fruit-filled chocolate slabs, lulling us into a serene state of bliss.