Tom S.
Yelp
ēst is an intimate restaurant with 30 seats (24 table seating and 6 at the bar) in the Riverside community. Executive Chef and owner Sean MacDonald offers 9-courses traditional and vegan tasting menus.
The space is clean and minimalist, providing a neutral stage to showcase the beautifully plated culinary creations. Baskets under the bench seats provide a convenient arrangement to store personal belongings. Bench seats do not have padding and are uncomfortable. Chairs are a bit low for the height of the tables and could use a little more padding as well.
The current menu is very interesting, consisting of a culinary travel across the country, highlighting ingredients, cooking techniques, the history and traditions of each province/region of Canada.
Our first stop was British Columbia (steelhead trout, sambal, kohlrabi). It was a lovely bite-sized dish, with striking flavors and perfect level of spiciness.
Our next stop was Alberta (48-hour sous vide beef tongue with bone marrow glaze, and koji inoculated culotte, horseradish, bread miso). The beef tongue had a nice saltiness to it; I love the texture of beef tongue, but the serving size was so small that I could barely feel it. The wagyu beef was tender and delectable, with the horseradish and miso bread providing a unique flavor.
Our stop in Saskatchewan brought us bannock, crispy chicken tails, Saskatoon berry powder. The bannock was nice, but the cultured butter with crispy chicken tails and berry powder was tasteless and did not contribute or improve the flavor of the course.
Manitoba brought us roasted beet, forest floor dashi and black walnut. The creme fraiche filled beet had a nice rich flavor.
For our stop in Ontario, we were presented with white corn porridge, pickled squash and corn ash. The porridge had a lovely creamy soft flavor, and the pickled squash and bacon created interesting textures.
Quebec was represented by smoked duck breast, duck heart and maple jus. Duck was tender; the maple jus reminded me of Christmas ham.
For the Maritimes, we stopped in Nova Scotia (scallop rappie pie, crisp potato, pickled dulse), New Brunswick (maple yeast ploye, salted lentil caviar) and PEI (butter poached lobster, steamed mussel, burn corn husk mignonette). The scallop rappie pie tasted like cold mashed potato with a hint of seafood. The ploye tasted like fat and nothing else; it was gross. The steamed mussel flavor completely overpowered the lobster.
At our stop in Newfoyndland & Labrador, the rabbit terrine with cloudberry and wild mushrooms was lovely presented in a rabbit trap. The terrine had a nice texture, but unfortunately the wild mushroom sauce was too salty.
We finished our journey across Canada in the Northern Territories (pumpkin seed ice cream with lemon verbena snow; chocolate brownie soil with balsam fir sponge, candied lichen and lingonberry; pine cruller with corn silk kombucha). The pumpkin seed ice cream had a very unique flavor with was not unpleasant to the palate. Chocolate brownie was unexpected, as it was all different types of crumbles in a plate; again, it was unique, I did not love it, but did not dislike it either. Finally, the cruller was awesome and had a delicate texture.
Chef Sean MacDonald succeeded providing a unique culinary experience that you cannot get anywhere else, although some dishes were more successful than others. The serving sizes need to be improved; they were too small. Having had tasting menus in so many different restaurants, I have to say this was the first time that at the end of the meal I did not feel satisfied.
Tiffany (General Manager) and Gina provided excellent service throughout the evening. They were knowledgeable and friendly. Service was timed well; we didn't feel rushed or waiting for long periods of time between courses. It was a nice touch that for a couple of the courses, Chef Sean MacDonald presented the dishes himself.
Deposit is required at the time of reservation. Street parking available on Queen Street. Served by TTC streetcar route 501.
TLDR; good food, great service, some hits and some opportunities for improvement
Photos: https://thomassu.smugmug.com/Food/2020/200206est/n-8gPtp9/