Carlos L
Google
Esthio, nestled in a charming 1931 neo-Classical building just steps from the heart of Athens, is a rare find: a restaurant where Balkan and Greek traditions are not merely preserved but elevated, reimagined, and, most importantly, respected.
The space is intimate and minimalistic, stripped of excess yet warmed by attentive, genuinely welcoming service. The staff are knowledgeable and eager with recommendations, guiding guests through a menu that bridges the familiar and the unexpected. There is a sense here of being invited not just to dine, but to participate in a story, a gentle hospitality that lingers long after the meal.
My journey began with a rustic slab of homemade bread, its crust dusted with flour and its crumb airy and fragrant. Alongside, a bowl of glossy Kalamata olives and a vibrant ajvar set the tone: bold, honest flavors, each ingredient allowed to shine. The bread, still warm, was the ideal vehicle for the ajvar’s smoky-sweet depth and the olives’ briny punch.
The tomato salad arrived as a riot of color and texture: cherry tomatoes bursting with late-spring ripeness, scattered with olives, slivers of pepper, and generous clouds of feta. What could have been a pedestrian dish was instead a masterclass in ingredient selection and balance. The addition of pepper “textures” (roasted, perhaps pickled) and the creamy tang of feta elevated this classic to something memorable.
Esthio’s moussaka is not the heavy, bechamel-laden slab of Greek cliché, but rather a delicate, almost ethereal stuffed eggplant. Here, the eggplant is gently roasted and filled with a savory stew of ground beef, finished with a whisper of potato béchamel so light it barely registers. The result is a dish that honors its roots while refusing to be weighed down by them. Comforting, yet sophisticated.
Perhaps the evening’s highlight, the giaourtotavas, is a traditional Balkan recipe rarely encountered in such refined form. Tender crisped lamb sweetbreads are nestled in a creamy yogurt sauce, with rice providing gentle ballast. Each spoonful is rich, tangy, and deeply satisfying, a testament to the kitchen’s technical skill and respect for tradition.
A glass of rosé, bright and refreshing, paired beautifully with the lighter starters, while a robust yet supple red wine stood up to the richness of the sweetbreads and moussaka. The meal concluded with a complimentary glass of masticha, the best I’ve tasted!
I hope I will find time to visit again and explore more from the menu.