Humboldt Forum im Berliner Schloss

"Zoom out. What’s this place all about? This enormous ethnographic museum—or, rather, many museums within a museum—courted controversy right from the start, as it houses colonial-era artifacts within a reconstructed Baroque palace. The short version: The original Berlin Palace (Berliner Schloss), built between 1698 and 1718, was damaged during World War II and eventually demolished in 1950. Then in the 1970s, the German Democratic Republic (GDR) government built the modernist Palace of the Republic (Palast der Republik) on the same site. After reunification of East and West Germany, the building fell into disrepair and was dismantled in 2008. Italian architect Franco Stella was commisioned to faithfully rebuild the palace’s façade according to its original look and dimensions—except for the side facing the Spree River, which has a contemporary look. Inside the new museum, the spaces look ultra-modern, even sterile. But the museum’s curators have determined to do things differently, by telling the stories of how and from where the objects within were acquired. Certain objects, including some of the Benin Bronzes from Nigeria, have already been returned to their country of origin (other Benin Bronzes are now on loan to the Humboldt for a period of time before being returned.) Many other contested pieces remain, and it’s fascinating to see the struggle between art and provenance and ethics playing out in real time here. A museum's permanent collection is its defining feature: How was this one? The Humboldt Forum’s collection is vast and varied—and honestly more than a little overwhelming. The main exhibit is the Ethnological Collection and Asian Art, which displays about 20,000 objects from Berlin’s former Ethnological Museum and Museum for Asian Art of the State Museums. What’s most interesting here is that many objects are examined in a critical context—for instance, looking at how they were taken from African nations during colonial rule, with descriptions in both German and English. The fascinating, if sprawling, Berlin Global exhibit examines Berlin’s impact on the world in six categories: Boundaries, Entertainment, Fashion, Interconnection, Revolution, Space, and War. The After Nature (Humboldt Lab) exhibition critically examines the interplay between climate change and democracy in countries around the world. Then there are a few exhibitions reminding you of the building’s complex history: a Sculpture Hall displaying fragments of the original palace as well as six large 18th-century sculptures; the Palace Cellar below ground that includes part of the medieval Dominican monastery originally on the site as well as preserved sections of the Berlin Palace’s foundations; and a large-scale video panorama about the history of the site (“800 years of history in just 14 minutes!”) Plus, a panoramic rooftop on the fourth floor (accessible with an extra fee) offers lovely views of the Berlin rooftops. Also of note: As befits a modern museum, a good number of exhibits are interactive, with buttons to push, videos and virtual reality stories to watch, and audio to listen to. Exhibits keep us coming back. What can we expect? Humboldt Palace showcases multiple temporary exhibits each year, many focusing on difficult and complex topics. Non-permanent exhibitions have included an examination of looted art from the colonial period through the Napoleonic conquests through the Third Reich; a deep dive into Korean art and objects from the 19th century to the present day selected from the museum’s large collection; and a critical look at Tanzanian objects from the museum’s collection, many of which were acquired in violent ways during German and British colonial rule. As part of the museum’s credo, all the exhibits also invite critical thinking on the part of the viewer. They tend to be well-arranged, exhaustively labeled, and highly interactive, with videos, audio, and opportunities to record your own thoughts and give feedback on what you’re seeing. What did you make of the crowd? The museum attracts a mix of curious locals and visitors, both those truly fascinated by the history of other cultures and those fascinated by the controversy surrounding the project. Since it’s one of the newest large-scale attractions in Berlin, you also find people who scout out the latest things to see. There’s also a large contingent of families, since the museum offers a wide range of activities for kids, from family-focused guided tours to “picture book cinema” each weekend (where books are read aloud while being projected on a screen) to theater events. Music-lovers also come for the regular concerts held within the museum, including the Resident Music Collective, a 15-piece ensemble specifically formed for the Humboldt Forum’s opening that continues to create and premiere pieces inspired by the museum’s exhibitions. On the practical tip, how were the facilities? The Humboldt Forum’s layout can be confusing. The exhibits are on multiple floors (with the ethnological and Asian exhibits on the second and third floors), and the signage isn’t great. Some pernament exhibits, specifically Berlin Global (which has an extra fee) and After Nature (which is free), require advance booking, either online or once you’re at the museum, with timed tickets. That said, everything is accessible for people with mobility issues, and the elevators work well. I’d suggest taking it one floor at a time and walking in a counter-clockwise direction to best catch all the exhibits that interest you. Any guided tours worth trying? You can download a number of helpful free audio tours to your phone, including tours that showcase architecture, the Asia exhibits, the Africa and Oceania exhibits, Berlin Global, and After Nature. If you don’t want to download the tours to your phone, you can rent a media guide for €3 from the information desk in the museum’s foyer. There are also regularly scheduled guided tours (€8) that cover the museum’s history and individual exhibits—these can be worth the cost for a deeper dive into topics that interest you; book them in advance online or at the information desk. Gift shop: obligatory, inspiring—or skip it? The comprehensive and fun gift shop offers a little something for everyone. In addition to the usual art books, knickknacks, and jewelry, I was thrilled to find some unique items like Berlin Dry Gin and Berlin Vodka, produced in a former brewery in Kreuzberg and bottled exclusively for Humboldt Forum; replica lamps similar to those that once decorated the Palace of the Republic; and a colorfully designed package of wildflower seed balls inspired by the collection of scientist Alexander von Humboldt. There’s also a second smaller gift shop in the museum’s foyer. Is the café worth a stop? As befitting such a large museum, visitors have their choice of five options for nourishment. Restaurant Wilhelm is the most gourmet of them, with oysters, caviar, a French-German tasting menu (think lobster bisque and Bavarian cheese dumplings), and a wide range of à la carte choices, including steak tartare and coq au vin. Its more casual sister restaurant, Deli Alexander, has a selection of salads, soups, bowls, pastas, and ice creams, plus many coffees, wines, and beers to choose from. Lebenswelten Bistro focuses on ecologically sustainable vegetarian and vegan dishes, along with burgers, meatballs, and schnitzel for the meat-lovers, and Forum Café is a fine stop for a quick coffee and cake. But the most appealing choice would have to be Restaurant Baret; the contemporary European cuisine for lunch and dinner is fine, but what really makes it worth a stop are the floor-to-ceiling windows affording gorgeous city views, especially lovely while enjoying one of their signature cocktails. Any advice for the time- or attention-challenged? Allot as much time as you can—or, better yet, spread your visit out over two or three days. There’s lots to see here, and rushing through definitely won’t do it justice. If you just don’t have that many hours to spare, make sure to check out the Berlin Global exhibit and the parts of the Ethnological Collection that hold the most interest for you."

"The Humboldt Forum’s collection is vast and varied—and honestly more than a little overwhelming. The main exhibit is the Ethnological Collection and Asian Art, which displays about 20,000 objects from Berlin’s former Ethnological Museum and Museum for Asian Art of the State Museums. What’s most interesting here is that many objects are examined in a critical context—for instance, looking at how they were taken from African nations during colonial rule, with descriptions in both German and English. The fascinating, if sprawling, Berlin Global exhibit examines Berlin’s impact on the world in six categories: Boundaries, Entertainment, Fashion, Interconnection, Revolution, Space, and War. The After Nature (Humboldt Lab) exhibition critically examines the interplay between climate change and democracy in countries around the world. Then there are a few exhibitions reminding you of the building’s complex history: a Sculpture Hall displaying fragments of the original palace as well as six large 18th-century sculptures; the Palace Cellar below ground that includes part of the medieval Dominican monastery originally on the site as well as preserved sections of the Berlin Palace’s foundations; and a large-scale video panorama about the history of the site (“800 years of history in just 14 minutes!”) Plus, a panoramic rooftop on the fourth floor (accessible with an extra fee) offers lovely views of the Berlin rooftops. Also of note: As befits a modern museum, a good number of exhibits are interactive, with buttons to push, videos and virtual reality stories to watch, and audio to listen to." - Krystin Arneson, Liz Humphreys

"The party will be bookended by the debut later in the year of the Humboldt Forum in the Berlin Palace. The sprawling complex will include the Ethnological and Asian Art museums, as well as a Berlin Exhibition that explores how the city, now a hub of diversity, interacts with the rest of the world and grapples with issues of cultural appropriation." - Travel + Leisure Editors