Daniel B.
Yelp
Five and Ten is renowned Athens/Atlanta chef Hugh Acheson's flagship restaurant, nestled among the University of Georgia's numerous fraternity and sorority houses. If you weren't looking for it, you might mistake it for another Greek house. In Atlanta, Acheson is known primarily for Empire State South. In Athens, he's got this restaurant and The National. Five and Ten opened in 2000, seemingly ahead of its time. While the food was beautiful and the service was great, there were some hits and misses among the dishes we tried. Overall though, I still think this is a very good restaurant and one that I wouldn't hesitate to recommend.
This is a contemporary Southern restaurant. It occupies an old house which has been converted into a kitchen, restaurant, and bar. Many rooms of the house now serve as dining rooms and the porch has multiple tables as well for outdoor dining. As all of Acheson's restaurants are, the interior is nicely decorated (the character of the house is maintained) and the atmosphere is casual, but refined. Free parking (about 20 spaces) is available in a paved lot in the back.
The restaurant is open for dinner service only except for Sunday brunch (10:30am to last seating at 2:30pm). We visited for dinner on a busy Saturday night. Reservations are recommended. Aside from calling, you can request a reservation on Five and Ten's website at https://www.fiveandten.com/visit.
The menu is seasonal. When we visited, the dinner menu had eight "snackies" (priced at $5-22 each; including a charcuterie board), eight small plates ($9-16), seven large plates ($22-42), and six desserts ($9-12). There was also a three-course dinner for two for $40 per person. Beverage-wise, they offer cocktails, wine by the glass, beer, housemade non-alcoholic drinks, and an extensive wine list (by the bottle).
We tried a nice sampling of the menu:
Cocktails:
* Siren's call ($12) - rum, sherry, turmeric honey, sour orange, tonic
* Mojito
Snackies:
* Pimento cheese ($10) - pepper jelly, 5&10 sourdough
Small:
* Roasted baby kale ($10) - Green goddess, pickled togarashi, mint, spoonbread croutons
* Guinea hog belly ($14) - wheat berry miso, salad burnet, brown butter morels, hazelnuts, minutina & scapes
* Very fresh ricotta ($10) - barely cooked celtuce, fennel molasses, wild cress, fried levain
* Braised lamb leg ($13) - handkerchief pasta, shaved kohlrabi, brassica pesto, beet greens
* Turnips cacio e pepe ($9) - fresh & whey pickled turnips, black pepper, Parmesan, butter
Large:
* Pasta ribbons ($22) - roasted tomato sauce, cherry tomato, jalapeno, Parmesan, mozzarella, basil, arugula
* Pork chop ($42) - escarole, baby fennel, tangerine, mustard seed, spoonbread, sauce caline, pork belly
* Guinea hog sausage ($34) - creamy polenta, charred baby cabbage, turtle peas, wood roasted hog saddle, sorrel
Desserts:
* Strawberry & meringue ($9) - toasted walnut, heirloom popcorn, strawberry shrub
* Chocolate torte ($9) Buttermilk whip, ginger bourbon cherries, sweet milk powder
* Apple brioche donuts ($9) - malted caramel, cinnamon sugar
All of the dishes were plated terrifically. Each plate looked like a work of art. On a visual level, the food at this restaurant is one of the most picturesque and memorable I've seen in recent memory. As far as how the food tasted, I'll break it down into The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly.
- The Good (my favorites): Roasted baby kale, turnips cacio e pepe, pasta ribbons, Guinea hog sausage, chocolate torte.
The roasted baby kale and turnips cacio e pepe were outstanding. The kale seemed perfectly picked with each piece having just the right amount of delicious dressing. The turnips were ripe and meaty, cooked to ideal taste and texture. The pasta ribbons were delectable and full of umami flavor. The Guinea hog sausage was relatively mild in flavor, smooth, and satisfying. The chocolate torte was rich, flavorful, and addictive.
- The Bad (actually, still good): Pimento cheese, pork chop, apple brioche donuts.
I liked the layer of pepper jelly on top of the pimento cheese. It was yummy. The sourdough was toasted and crispy. The pork chop was substantial. It had generous tasty toppings and the meat was savory. The apple brioche donuts were a bit dense, but sweet and not bad at all.
- The Ugly (I did not like or really care for these): Guinea hog belly, very fresh ricotta, braised lamb leg, strawberry & meringue.
The Guinea hog belly was extremely fatty (too fatty for me). However, the morels were unique and appetizing with robust flavor. The very fresh ricotta simply didn't have much flavor and the fluffy and light strawberry & meringue didn't resonate with me. As for the braised lamb leg, its multi-layered presentation was a bit bizarre to us. The lamb itself wasn't very good. The meat, while moist, tasted bland. The only saving grace was perhaps the soft handkerchief pasta.
Service was great. Our server was Marvella. She did a nice job describing the dishes I had questions about.